Haga Haga, The Haven and Diaz Cross

12^th December 2011

Left home -  after lunch 1pm 

                                                                                                  km

13h00 – Citrusdal to Op die Berg                                     89                   

14h30 – Ceres Sutherland Tarred rd (Droehoek rd)     100      (189)   90 min

15h00 -Touws  River                                                            30

16h00 - Laingsberg                                                             80

Rouxpos -                                                                             118     (307)   60

17h00 Seweweekspoort                                                       35     (342)  

17h25 – end of Seweweekspoort                                        21     (363)   25

19h00 – Kykoe Langkloof                                                   177    (540)   95

Seweweekspoort

The last time we went through this pass was in 1982. We remember a long drive that took forever so at 5pm we were prepared for the long haul. It is quite a magnificent pass with the fold mountains making us humans feel really small. It took us all of 25 minutes to reach the R62 at Zoar. And we were thinking it was gonna take the whole afternoon and evening... Maybe the road has vastly improved in 30yrs.

Kykoe

Moving eastwards we got to the Langkloof by 7pm. Hardly any campsites on this road. Not even a B&B. By 7.30 it was getting dark and we came to a sign - Kykoe . This little track looked promising. There was a farm house so we asked if we could stay the night. They pointed down the track and told us of a derelict house where we could pitch the Savoy. It was a perfect spot and we had some supper and slept

13^th December 2011

Next morning we were told that the farmhouse was used by artist Thomas Baines to paint Spitskop.

After chatting for some minutes we discovered that the old toppie was related to Alan. He was a Van Wyk from Kanolvlei (Mr Roux) – Alan’s great grandma Lenie Van Wyk also came from there. Talk about a small world. We left them with some of Stagmanskop’s plums and smiles all round.

Nanaga

This great little padstal has moved to the other side of N2 and is not small anymore. It has lost its charm altogether. It also requires one to pay to go to the loo. We will be using the other padstalletjies in future.

The Lookout, Port Alfred

Got to the Kowie about 12 noon and met Justin’s folks, Louise and Alan Corrans. Had tea and scones. Their B&B is beautiful and has a spectacular view of Kowie river mouth and lagoon (now the Marina). Gave them some preserves and they gave us some biscuits for Xmas.

On  to East London and a late lunch at the Spur (Hamburgers). Then went shopping for Marsh strand. Mostly food and booze.

Arrived at Marsh Strand about 5pm. Craig was here to meet us. So nice to be here again

14^th – 16^th December

Weather not fantastic, sea cold, walked to Pullen Bay.  Jill arrived on 16^th 

17^th December

Frances and Justin arrived. They spent their first night with Justin’s folks in Kowie. It was nice that they were here.

19^th December

Peter turned up in a reasonably good mood, but decided to go back to watch the Cricket in peace.

23^rd December

Walking from Cintsa to Gonubie

Alan and I decided to walk from Cintsa West to Bulura and back. It was a cloudy day with low tide so off we went. When we reached Bulura it was only 10am. We gave Frances a tinkle. She was in EL with Justin and Craig. So we decided to walk to Gonubie thus completing another distance on our coastal map.

We passed some nice places: Glen Muir, Yellow Sands caravan park

By now the tide had turned. At Kwelera mouth the river was a bit higher which meant wading across. Alan took all his clothes off – skande – and I just took off my shorts. He however did not get wet other than his calves. I got my ‘mary’ wet as I’m a lot shorter. The walk from there to Gonubie was crap. A lot of loose rocky bits - not good for walking - and no nice beaches. At Gonubie the tide was streaming in strongly and the river was quite wide. We were concerned about our electronic stuff otherwise we would have swam across quite happily.

There were Frances, Justin and Craig on the other side. We also saw someone with a dingy on the beach. Justin had the presence of mind to ask if he could borrow it to fetch us. What a relief after that lousy walk. A pub lunch at Gonubie rounded off the adventure.

Christmas Day

The weather so far has not been that great. We’ve been to the beach but not stayed for long. The first good day was about the 27^th December when we stayed on the beach all day. We've seen at least 26 oyster catchers on the rocks. Just wonderful.

31^st December

Cintsa

We drove to Cintsa West and walked to Cintsa East and back. Jill came too. I traveled  in the back of Savoy with Nug dog. It was the best day we’ve had so far and there were lots of people on the beach at Cintsa East. The beach there is really long and everyone was out – just fantastic.

We had lunch at a pub at Cintsa West – fish and chips. Fuel tank very low but we don't fill up...

Next day Alan decides to go to Kei Mouth to fill up. Diesel really expensive R11.31/l. Very scenic drive to Kei Mouth.

1^st January 2012

New Year’s Day – Happy, lets hope it is. Frances is now 31.

The weather started to improve a bit.

4^th January

The Haven and Breezy Point

We took the Savoy to the Haven. Left Marsh strand at 10h04.  We wanted to walk the distance between Mbashe river and Breezy Point. We got there mid afternoon and asked if we could camp on Mbashe. No camping this side they said – we have to go to Dweza. Easier said than done as you have to go far inland to get across Mbashe. Stay at the Haven hotel…sorry we’re full. They said to phone Patrick (the chief at the Park) he said we could stay in the park yard. (There was a nice place at Mbanyane river mouth where we could have camped wild.) Mbanyane is about half way between Mbashe river (The Haven) and Breezy Point. So we walked from Mbanyane to Mbashe that afternoon. Left at 4pm and got back at 6pm. Two lovely long beaches.

Mbashe Lighthouse - 1926

Alan had a go at catching a fish as a fisherman there said he’d caught a cob the day before. This is a protected reserve so NO fishing allowed. There is always a yahoo on the beaches tho’. One guy was so brazen as to drive in his SUV along the beach – IN the reserve! And there were oyster catchers with a nest on the beach. So disappointing.

5^th January

Next day was raining. The rain is just light drizzle but soaking and makes all the roads slippery. We did the walk to Breezy Point which took all of ¾ hour. Breezy Point is a lovely spot and the cottages are all on a rise just above the beach. A top spot for surfers – it has a classic point break. At one of the cottages we were invited for a cup of coffee which was really nice. The people were from Kokstad. When we got back to the Savoy we decided we wouldn’t go to Dwesa as the rain was non-stop. Patrick was really kind and gave us the night for free.

We still took the road going back to Dwesa as it is the pass down to Mbashe river. It would have been spectacular if the day was sunny. But it was wet and slippery with the mist right down. Alan had a wonderful time using ALL the gears of the Savoy. He even helped some blokes get out of a trench with the max trax and a  rope. They were most thankful. It is a very steep pass and we shall have to do it again sometime. What we did see was a very deep valley with huts dotted all over the mountains and the river way down there. Very scenic.

We came back to Marsh Strand via Willowvale and stopped at the Komga turnoff for some diesel. This was way cheaper than at Kei Mouth R10.37/l - a rand cheaper.

10h04             Marsh Strand            -           Kei cuttings Shell                =          60km

10h52             Kei cutting                 -           N2 turnoff Elliotdale                       117     (177)

12h47             N2                               -           Elliotdale (detour past)        =         20     (197)

Haven                        -           Dwesa turnoff           =          40km

Junction store           -           Willowvale                 =          60km

The Eastern Cape Parks board need to get their act together at Dwesa and Cwebe. There is no camping at Cwebe (Haven side of the park). One has to go all the way round to get to the camp at Dwesa and it is a long detour, especially when you want to walk from Mbashe eastwards – 87km on a very rough road. We did it in the wet and if we hadn’t had 4x4 it would have been nigh impassable. As a  4x4 route it was great.

The whole trip distance = 534 km.

6^th January

The best day ever. Spent nearly all day at the beach. Had lunch at Haga Haga hotel, sole and chips. Alan had calamari steak as did Craig. Robert had bangers and mash…what!

The sea was divine and we swam three times! Even Jill had a swim. The ethnic tent did its thing as usual and the dogs had fun chasing waves (Nuggett) and crabs (Jock and Brando).

7^th January

Another lovely day in sunny SA. The weather was great and we went swimming in the sea again.  Swimming in the sea is quite relaxing and cathartic. The sea has not been so rough this time and the water was really clear.  We swam quite a lot this summer.

9^th January

Boo Hoo…sob sob-sob – Packed up and left Marsh Strand at 09h20. Had that home sick feeling. Traveled the R72 and popped down to Kayser’s Beach to see what it was like – nothing like Haga – lots of houses and very little beach, mostly rocks. What was really off-putting were all the plaques that had been stuck on rocks in memory of loved ones. The beach is not a cemetery for god’s sake. (There are also some benches along the green front at Marsh Strand. I realise that people are grieving but that’s what a grave yard is for after all). Kayser’s Beach was a bit dull. We had tea and moved on. We walked 1 km of the beach there.

Canon Rocks and Boknes

We had lunch at Kowie’s Guido’s. Pizza and Pasta. It took them forever to serve us. They were not expecting the crowd they got as it was the last day of hols. It was still enjoyable and we watched a few fishing boats negotiate the Kowie mouth to get out to sea.

We stopped at the new Superspar (for provisions) which is a few km out of Kowie. On top of the hill going towards Kenton. It is part of a new mall there – all very grand but not really very much in it.

Drove on to Boknes and Canon Rocks. Canon Rocks has a lovely, neat caravan park in Alice street. It’s big so we would not want to be there at the height of season but it has many trees (we had a lot of fun bird watching – saw some paradise fly-catcher and a Knysna lourie) and the sites are all grassy. The ablution block is fine – a bit small when the place is full I would imagine. It is well looked after and clean. My only criticism is the doors which just cover you. You can look over the top when showering and the bottom has been cut off too. However the park is a stone’s throw from the beach so off we went to have a swim.

Another nice thing about Canon rocks caravan park is they allow dogs out of season. Yay.

10^th January

The walk to Diaz Cross

At the Boknes beach there’s a sign that says Diaz Cross 3 700m. We thought of doing it from Canon Rocks but that would have been 7km one way and we did not have the time. So we walked from Boknes. What a lovely walk – flat beach (low tide – always walk at low tide!!) It took ¾ hour to get there. The cross is perched on a rocky out-crop called Kwaaihoek. It is a replica of the original which has been pieced together and place at Wits Univeristy. It was really hot so on the way back we skinny-dipped – fantastic – not a soul in sight. We must take diving gear next time as there are lovey rock pools at Kwaaihoek.

We took the road less travelled from Boknes – and found ourselves at a boom which lifted for us as we approached! How nice! This took us to Woody Cape, which is now part of the Addo Park. It is truly beautiful scenery – dairy country and everything so green. They have had a lot of rain and its just wonderful.

There are three lovely camp-sites at Ocean View. The beach is huge – like at Diaz Cross. We still have to walk this section. Woody Cape was ok – you need permits as its Sanparks.

We saw some lovey storks.

Ocean View Sites: 046 654 0003/4  Lyn or Dave (Alexandria)

Woody Cape Section Addo Park: 046 653 0601

Back to the N2 at Nanaga

Jeffrey’s Bay

Got to J-Bay at tea-time and stayed at Kabeljous Caravan Park (R150 for the site with own ablutions). It was ok and near the beach. So off to walk to the lagoon (Kabeljous River). A lovely beach but tide was in so it was soft…bleugh. Saw 20 oysters catchers on the lagoon. Had some steak to braai and so to bed…

11^th January

Next morning we woke up bright and early to get going for the last leg home! And what do we find – a flat tyre!! OH NO. It was a real mission getting the blasted thing off. But we did eventually and found a Supa-Quick in Humansdorp (we needed a new tyre – or so we thought). So that was super quick and we were off on the R62 home – the Langkloof.

We drove again through Seweweekspoort. This time we stopped for lunch. Very hot. Back to Laingsburg > Touws river > R46 > Op de Berg > Citrusdal.

Home at 18:45. Always nice to be home.

Distances from Marsh Strand – Home via Seweweekspoort

                                                                                                            Km                 

Marsh Strand            -           Kaizer’s Beach                     =          115                 1hr 25 min

Kaizer’s Beach         -           Boknes                                  =          157                

Boknes                      -           Canon Rocks                                       14                   

Canon rocks             -           Woody Cape                         =            19       

Boknes                      -           Jeffrey’s Bay                         =           232

Jeffrey’s Bay             -           Kareedouw                           =             65

Kareedouw               -           Joubertina                             =             44

Joubertina                 -           Oudtshoorn                           =           193

Oudtshoorn               -           Laingsburg                            =           170     via Seweweekspoort

Laingsburg                -           Touws River                          =             81

Touws River              -           turn-off R46                          =                9

R46                             -           Sutherland turnoff               =             31

                                    -           Droehoek turnoff                 =            10

Droehoek turn          -           R303                                      =            29

R303                          -           The Baths                              =          107

                                                                                                           1276 km

Koingnaas and Namaqua National Park

2011 September

Decided to take a long weekend - hadn't gone anywhere since February! - and go up to Koingnaas. A long distance, from Citrusdal to Koingnaas is 4 hours.

Left home at 11h20 Friday morning and travelled on the N7 till we came to the turnoff for Hondeklip Bay 4km beyond Garies. Stopped at Van Rhynsdorp for diesel. Saw the butchery and bought some sosaties and biltong. Biltong not so nice – a bit grisly. Also bought booze.

You still have to get a permit to be able to go to that part of the world. De Beers may be pulling out but the restrictions are still in place. Take your ID books.

Distance Table
Bitterfontein
253	Citrusdal
199	54	Clanwilliam
62	315	261	Garies
149	402	348	77	Hondeklipbaai
88	111	57	147	237	Klawer
164	417	363	92	15	250	Koingnaas
177	430	376	107	28	263	13	Caravan pk
67	186	132	129	216	21	229	242	VanRhynsdorp

9.9.2011 - Friday

Trip to Koingnaas

The purpose of the trip was to see the sewerage works that are supposed to be marvellous. Decided to make a long weekend of it as the appointment was only on Monday 12^th September.

Made a booking through Diamond Coast – Forever Namaqualand. They also help you with getting a permit. Small dogs allowed at certain times. Yay for Nuggett.

Cost for 3 nights = R390.00 (R65/person/night)

From N7 to Hondeklip Bay is 83km of gravel. Some lovely flowers to be seen.

After about 4hours (from Citrusdal) driving we arrived at Koingnaas (14km from HKB). A very nice lady helped us at the boom. We gave her a pocket of oranges.

Koingnaas Caravan Park

13km north of Koingnaas is the caravan park right on the sea – no trees (although there is a small one that looks as if it’ll have a chance to grow big). Got there past 5pm and started to “put up the tent”. Three other bakkies turned up. Those guys were clever and went straight to the ablution block. They found NO water. That’s fine we said we have water in our tank. (Do we?? The goddamn tank is still leaking!) Anyway one of their group went to organize the water thank goodness. We gave them a pocket of oranges. They were on their way to Richtersveld.

Ablution block

The shower at the ablution block is neat and reasonably clean. The walls painted bright sky blue which gives it a nice fresh look. Think I’ll do it for Jill’s bathroom at Haga. The hot water comes in waves so you get hot cold hot cold – brrrrr….shoo-shoo…brrrr….shoo-shoo.

It was a lovely evening and we walked north for half an hour and found a rusty old jetty – it must’ve been used in the diamond industry – everything in these parts was used in the diamond industry. We saw some Egyptian geese in the sea – unusual but there’re quite a few. No oyster catchers so far.

Sosaties for supper with fire spuds and salad.

10.9.2011 – Saturday

Got up at a leisurely hour and had breakfast. Noticed the others leaving – we’re all alone. A fresh breeze. We decided to walk south. Hiked to a beacon to see if we could see Noup and there it was not too far – got there after an hour’s walk from caravan park.

Alan almost stood on a teeny tiny puff adder sunning himself on the jeep track. At first we thought it was dead but then Alan put his stick at his nose and he reversed! It must have been all of 10cm long

Noup

Noup is a cluster of little cottages right on the sea shore – beg pardon - “Sunset Boulevard” separates the sea from the cottages. They are built from the rocks from the sea shore by diamond divers. They must have been zonked while building or there was no level to hand. The doors and windows are not straight – all out of sinc with each other. This however adds to the quirkiness of them and they are really very cute and quaint. Each cottage is unique but all are built from the same rock and windows and doors all painted the same blue. One family from Oranjemund was staying but all were open so we made use of the opportunity to look around. A very good idea to go and stay there if you want to see the spring flowers along the coast.

A large rusty Anchor rests on a rock at “Sunset Boulevard”, the jeep track between the cottages and the shore.

Not much beach here. mostly rocks so our walk was along the jeep tracks except the teeny beach near Noup.

Saw a colony of seals on the rocks in front of the beacon nearby.

Nugget was in her element chasing the sandpipers and gulls.

Back 2 Basics Backpackers

Saturday afternoon we took a walk north again and walked further to take a look at Back 2 Basics Backpackers. The gates says “No Enter” but the place is abandoned. Must have been fairly recently as other blogs from 2009 mention that it was open. The guy who stayed there obviously had budgies and dogs as there were bird cages and a sign saying “Passop vir die Hond”! Signs all over the place on the philosophy of life. Workshop still had paint and a wheelbarrow amongst other things. There were beds still in the out room. Nothing locked up. Quite fascinating.

Apparently there is a secret surf spot nearby but we didn’t find it.

Supper of Hardekooltjie wors – the best and fire spuds and salad.

Sunday 11.9.2011

Got up late again. What is it about going somewhere else that lets you sleep longer than at home? After all home is the most comfy isn’t it?

We drove all the way to Die Houthoop (50km) to watch the Rugby: Springboks against Wales. SA won by a hair’s breadth 17-16. If the Boks play like this during the World Cup they won’t get very far. Wales played better rugby but it’s the break-through that counts and SA broke through twice.

We gave the lady there a couple of pockets of oranges.

Nice rest Sunday afternoon. Finished reading The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo. Enjoyable but could’ve been shorter.

Shipwreck – Piratiny

Drove to the far side of the back-packers to a gate that was locked. The sign said “4x4 Shipwreck”. We decided to walk the distance. Started along the road and should’ve turned down a jeep track but carried on walking. Decided to cross to the dune to see where we were – there were three more dunes between us and the sea! Walked straight across all three dunes. Found the jeep track and proceeded along it. I saw a beacon that I thought would be a nice place to check bearings but as I got close I could see the shipwreck in the distance. Not too far.

We walked all the way there. A lot of the jeep track was v sandy so we walked on the rocks and some of the little beaches much of the time.

Saw a seal and cormorants all sunning themselves on one rock. Also saw a very elegant heron. My camera is not suitable to take bird pics.

It took about an hour and a quarter good walking to get to the shipwreck. The sign says Piratiny. You can still see timber decking on the wreck. This was a Brazilian Cargo Steamer and was wrecked South of Kleinsee in 1943.

Nugget loved the walk – chased the birds and lizards.

Diamond Mining Rehabilitation

There is some re-hab going on of the dunes and dumps but there’s still a lot of scarring done for the sake of Diamonds. DON’T BUY DIAMONDS – NOT ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY.

“Diamonds are forever but the damage done by mining need not be” Dr Peter Carrick of SKEP (Succulent Karroo Ecosystem Programme). After 80 years of mining along the Namaqualand coast DeBeers is pulling our of mining there. Some of their mines are being sold to Transhex. The town of Kleinzee which is owned by De Beers has become a ghost town and needs to be re-proclaimed so that individuals can buy property there.

The environmental footprint left by the mining is not a pretty sight to see. However SKEP along with De Beers is taking the initiative to restore the coastline and rehabilitate the mine dumps. It is vastly improved since three years ago but many places are really ugly still.

Monday – 12 September

Koingnaas Sewerage Plant – the main purpose of our visit. Alan was shown around the place but there was not much he could learn as it was too big to copy for our resort.

We gave both blokes a pocket of oranges each.

Travelled down to Hondeklip Bay to fill up with diesel. THE NEAREST PUMP IS KOOINGNAAS. Oh No. back to Koingnaas again.

Namaqua National Park

De Beers gave this piece of coastline (between Spoeg river and Groen river) to SANP in 2008. It is now incorporated along with the other piece of land near Kamieskroon (Skilpad).

The last time we travelled this route was in 2008 with Ronnie and Fabio. The entrance is a few km outside Hondeklip Bay. Since then the road has improved vastly – still a short very sandy section. Still have to drive slowly through. SANP have done a good job of signposting the route but there is still no map. Every place has a GPS but we like maps!

A lot of the wild roads have been closed and the vegetation is taking over. This is really nice as its not so scarred looking anymore.

Spring Flowers

When thinking of Namaqualand flowers we always think of the fields of flowers that are so spectacular at this time of year (usually August). But drive this route in September and you will come across a whole new realm of flowers. Still daisies and vygies but bouquets all over the veld. Just magnificient. Almost makes you want to believe in God… yellows, oranges, pinks, whites and then we came across some deep red watsonias that were also wonderful. My camera doesn’t do justice to this amazing sight.

We also saw many steen bokkies, ostriches and their cutest little chicks. The poor things can’t run too far before they get tired and then they just flop down. Meerkats – too cute for words and then we surprised a secretary bird coming round a corner – just fantastic.

Groen Rivier Mond

This is the end of the park and where the park ranger’s office is. We were told its free parks week so no conservation fee needed to be paid. (We have a wild card so it was immaterial to us). She gave (actually sold us some brocures – one with a map of the whole Namaqua Park. Not very good and nothing about the spots along the coastline. But its still a new park so lets hope a map will be forthcoming in the future.

Popped in to say hello to McDonald and his wife. Their house is the only one left at Groenriviermond. They have life rights but may not sell the house on. It becomes property of SANP once they die. The place looks so much nicer without all the hideous shacks people erected (without permission). I think its great that there is a bit more control on this shoreline.

Carried on down the coastal route – a long drive but worth it to see all the wonderful flowers. Namaquasands is another eyesore but they too are required to rehab the dumps.

Arrived in Koekenaap at 5pm and travelled through Lutzville, Vredendal and back onto N7 at Klawer. Home after 7pm.

The trip down the coast took about 7 hours as opposed to 4 if you go via N7.

Distances in the Namaqua Park Phone 027 531 1015

Hondeklipbaai Gate: 0 10h15

Spoeg River turnoff 17 10h45

Boulderbaai turnoff 20 camping

Bitter River 32

Skuinsbaai North 34 camping

Koningkorrelbaai 38

Namaqua Beach camp 39.6

Skuinsklip 40.6

Bamboeskamp 43.6 camping

Varswater 45.4 camping

Kwass se Baai 47.4 lovely beach southwards

Abjoel 52.7 dive spots

Jaarse Baai 54.7

Galjoen Baai 62.7 skerms

Delwerskamp 63.7 camping

SANP office Groenrivier 64.7

Groenrivermond 69.7 14h00 McDonald

Worsie se kamp 110 not in park

Strandfontein Weekend at Caravan Park

2011.2.17-19 – Strandfontein Weekend at the Caravan Park

With us were Rodney, Chrissie, Gemma and Rob (came on Saturday)

Friday 17^th February

Left home later than intended at about 1pm. Alan wanted to use Manus Kotze’s kayak so we drove via Lambert’s Bay to collect it at his holiday home there. This was very interesting as it’s a gated community about 9km north of Lambert’s bay right on the coast – couldn’t get closer to the sea if you tried. His house is lovely but as usual we saw all the cracks and design faults. That’s the trouble with us; we can never appreciate something for what it is. Andre was also there. She obviously loves it as I would had we not bought our Savoy! But the kayak turned out to be a barge so we had a drink and moved on to Strandfontein.

This road between LB and Strandfontein belongs to the iron-ore company and would you believe it they demand a R30 fee for the use of it. It can’t be more than 25km and there’s a toll. Its not as if the iron-ore companies are skint or anything – Iniquitous is what I call it. Anyway we bribed the bloke and only paid R5. Bribery works.

Because we were late the Burtons got to Strandfontein before us. This became a problem as they didn’t know the place and instead of waiting for us booked a site far away from the sea. Now the lady at the desk insisted we pay for two sites which made it double. Not what we planned. We moved down to the sea-shore sites as that was important especially for me. I’d been looking forward to the sea for weeks.

A note about Strandfontein municipality and their caravan park: You have to pay a deposit of R320 (in cash) and then they will only deposit it back into your account afterwards. I am still waiting for the deposit to arrive in my bank account. This has put us off staying in the park again.

Each site has its own bathroom which is nice except our hot water didn’t work. Also there is nowhere to put anything – no shelves or bankies – v irritating.

Had a braai of sausage and pork rib.

Saturday 18^th February

Woke up later than usual which was nice. Decided to walk from Oliphant’s river mouth to Strandfontein. Drove to Papendorp in the Burton’s vehicle. Lots of water in the vlei and the salt pans were full of water. Probably from the high spring tides the day before.

The walk is nice and easy especially at spring low. Its about 7km – one of my favourites.

The Stotters turned up about half way so the boys went back to get the bakkie and we girls carried on. Didn’t see any oyster catchers this time…sigh.

Lunch of scotch eggs and cold meats and salads. Alan and Rob then went off to the estuary to canoe and try catch some fish. We rested and I had a lekker snooze – much needed. Walked around the village with the B’s. Had another braai of pork, lamb and sausage.

Sunday 19^th February

Breakfast of bacon and eggs. Suddenly everyone was getting ready to go and I was still in relax mode. You have to be out by 10am or pay another R90. Glory be!!! Anyway the B’s wanted to get off to see Roger. First to Doring Baai. Rob and Alan took the canoe out into the harbour and collected some mussels. The B’s collected kelp for their compost and Gemma took photos of the harbour and lighthouse. She makes money from her pics on some website that uses them as background features.

Gem and I also had a little paddle each. Then the B’s left for Roger and we went to have lunch at the Cabin Pub and restaurant, which has a deck that looks like a boat. V nice calamari but the chips were slap. We ran into Bette and Graham who were staying at a B&B nearby.

On our way home guess who was coming back from their trip to the Augrabies? Di and Richard. We invited ourselves for tea. They told us all about the falls and we tried to get a word in about the camping trip. I have to say that it is far nicer to stay at the house Di usually hires. r

Home after 6. Wish we could take Nuggett with us… sigh.

It was just wonderful to get away from the broiling valley even if it was just a couple of days.

Back to February 2006 when we did our first exploration of the Wild Coast beyond the Kei.

Coffee bay

6.2.2006 – Monday

Off to Coffee Bay with Peter at the wheel of his massive 4x4. Arrived at the Coffee Shack and got the Top House, a lovely little chalet. Got our first beer free. The Coffee Shack is situated on Bomvu Bay and Coffee Bay is just over a little hill. Coffee Bay is named such because a ship carrying coffee in the 19^th century got wrecked there and trees even grew from the beans so they say. There is no evidence of this anymore.

Do not feed the dogs! But Alan did so the animal stayed forever.

Alan went fishing after lunch and took a gillie named Michael who stank to high heaven. No luck with the fishing tho’.

8.2.2006

To Anchorage Hotel. We had to travel inland to get over the Mtata River at the bridge. The scenery is fantastic but marred by the weed Lantana – horrible stuff and in full flower. It stinks and has thorns. Anchorage is a lovely spot. We saw one of the locals catch a beaut cob. We had some sarmies at the hotel – v good value but took forever.

Alan and I walked back to Coffee Bay while Pete drove. It is a v. beautiful area for all the poverty. Huts, cliffs, river mouths. We had to cross the Mtata Mouth by ferry. R7 for the two of us. Mapuzi River was great. We walked past a beautiful aloe forest. At Mapuzi mouth we had to wade through the river. There were a lot of Mangrove swamps too. It went up to my chest, almost. The hike took 2½ hours - 7km. We braaied lamb chops for supper.

Every evening at Bomvu Backpackers they have locals playing drums. It sounds quite pleasant in the African night although not to everyone's taste.

Hole in the wall

9.2.2006

Drove to Hole in the Wall with Pete at the wheel. There were lovely fairy forests walking to the rock and it made me think of Ronnie. We had some tea on the rocks where fishermen where doing their thing.

Again we walked back to Coffee Bay. I must say it was very useful to have Pete do all the driving, as he never wanted to walk unless it was to shells. The hike was hardly along the coast and we had to go up and down which is not my favourite way. I preferred the other hike. It wasn’t difficult but tiring. I think Alan wanted to go too quickly again. We saw a beach I think we should have hiked on. This is when a guide is a good idea. Super dive spot along the way. Sea clean as a whistle. We popped in a White Clay hotel and got the tariffs. The last bit was on the road over the hill back to C Bay. Took 3½ hours. 10km. Back at 2pm.

At 4pm we drove back to Mdumbi beach. This is the best beach in SA according to Getaway Magazine December 2003. Pete looked for shells, we did too. We walked to Mdumbi Mouth which is about 600m. this means we have now walked from Mdumbi Mouth to Hole in the Wall.

We saw surfers. This may be why the beach is so revered:- According to Coast to Coast it has a Classic Point Break, which is great for surfing (whatever that means). Getaway magazine regards in one of the best in SA.

Belinda, the receptionist at Coffee Shack, was extremely friendly and helpful.

Xora mouth

10.2.2006

Friday and we packed up for Xora Mouth where Pete had booked accommodation for us at one of the houses.

We filled up at Mtata and I bought some provisions, no meat but who cares. The road off the N2 was ok at first and then it deteriorated. Just as well we didn’t take the car. But we got there at lunchtime and it was really nice except the water is min, very min. (Rain water tanks all over the place).

This is the place Pete calls the most magnificent in the world. Oy. Well, he could be right. It’s a beaut estuary. While he went shelling we swam across the mouth of the lagoon and it was quite a strong current. Saw canoes but there were no paddles.

The breezy point walk

11.2.2006

Today we decided to become shell collectors. We started off quite early in the morning to walk to Breezy Point, which is also fantastic plek for surfers. The book said it was a 90-minute walk. Huh! We picked up stacks of shells and came across some chaps collecting little marine fish. This gave us another idea to start this hobby. We have since found out that it is illegal to collect these sweet little creatures. I must say I think they are better off in the wild. We reckon the reason there are so many shells around here is because of the vertical rock structure that goes out 90^o to the sea. This makes gullies.

It is a lovely walk with mostly long beautiful beaches and a few small lagoons that were all closed. The cattle come down to the beach a lot. I think it is because they find it nice and cool as it is very humid there and the sea air just keeps things ok. There were also a lot of goats.

We walked past a small shipwreck called Aquilla II – Den Haag – Holland. Alan reckons it was someone’s dream. We found a few oysters on the beach so had a pleasant snack. We’ve had oysters every day so far!

We also had a nude swim and Alan did a bit of diving. We walked the whole way barefoot and it was about 6hrs all together. 3 ½ hours there and 2 ½ hours back. We were doing other things going there. 8km one way.

At Breezy Point a friendly dog came and latched onto us. He walked all the way back and stayed with us for the rest of the stay. Alan gave him some old bait the next day and then he became very protective of us. There were some friendly tsotsis who turned up and suddenly they were chased away by the dog. Not us!

At Xora we saw what we thought was a cattle sale – a lot of people and a lot of animals – cattle, horses etc.

Got back to find Pete’s bakkie with another flat.

12.2.2006

Then Alan took Pete across the Xora River in one of the canoes without paddles. He went walking for two hours; we spent the day on the beach. Alan snorkelled and found some coral reef fishes.

Later that afternoon Alan tried to catch a fish but the bait kept being nibbled off.

Six things to do at Xora: (at least) Birding, Shell collecting, Canoeing, Horse riding (we didn’t), Snorkelling, Fishing, Oyster collecting along the beach, Walking and last but not least – cooking food.

Bulungula

13.2.2006

Before moving on to Mazeppa Bay we got up early and walkied along to Bulungula Backpackers which is across the Xora – 2km. Alan got the canoe and nearly drowned helping me across. Bulungula is a lovely place, using traditional huts and helping the locals by giving them shares in the place. Only thing was lack of water so the loos were pit-loos and that put me off a bit. We chatted to Dave the owner and he was a very nice guy!

Got back to the house at about 10am packed and went to Mazeppa.

Mazeppa bay

It took us all of 4 hours to drive around from Xora to Mazeppa! What a trip and we didn’t stop once. Finally arrived there about 3pm and looked around for a backpackers or something similar but resorted to the hotel as this seemed to be the only place to stay. R385/night DBB plus a packed lunch for the hike. We took it coz we couldn’t leave it.

The hotel has been fixed up quite well with new thatch and all but there could have been major improvements in the design – us having done this sort of thing always notices discrepancies instead of just enjoying it.

We went down to the beach where there is a bridge across to the island. Alan and I then walked around the place a bit. It’s a nice place but not that interesting from a shell collecting point of view. I expect there is good fishing on a good day.

We had a nice swanky dinner – 4 courses and Pete got a bit tiddly and talked loudly. We came across some hikers who were doing the Wild Coast Meander. Not many other people in the hotel. The food was good especially the pudding – Amarula panne cotta.

14.2.2006 valentine Pa would have been 90

Next morning breakfast and then we parted company with Peter. And went off on our hike along the coast to Wave Crest. Took along our packed lunches – even Pete got a cheap thrill from this. And he wasn’t even hiking!

We started the 21km hike to Wavecrest at 8.45am. Very easy walking along long beaches and a load of fun. Not many shells. After 1 ½ hours we came to a tidal pool. It looked like no one was around so we skinny dipped. It was wonderful as we were quite hot and humid and the little tropical fishes were incredible. No oysters though – too difficult to get a hold of.

Another 2hours along the way we stopped under some ‘trees’ for lunch. There we saw two black guys walking past and checking us out. Do we panic or don’t we. We kept our cool as they returned to where they had been.

Packed lunch: sarmies, liquifruit, yoghurt, valentine chocolate, funky fruit stick, cheddar bites, peach etc.

Cebe

We came to this tiny little hamlet. On entering the sign showed us “welcome to Cebe”. We walked through ‘main st’ in a minute flat and across “Boys Bridge” back to the beach. This little plek was about an hour from Wavecrest.

This was a long walk and just as well we started early as by the end we were getting into the soft sand due to tide coming in. We came across 2 oyster catchers who were in a panic about us walking past them. They must be guarding eggs – such sweet little things.

Nxaxo mouth and Wavecrest

We arrived at Nxaxo mouth at 2.45pm and then had to wait for the ferry to fetch us across to Wavecrest hotel. It being Spring tides the poor little ferryman had great difficulty getting the boat across against the tide but he managed in the end. Going back was easy, as he just had to guide the boat over the water. This was where Alan lost his stick. Not exactly lost it but left it on the east bank. We saw it stuck in the sand but then the porters took it off with them once they had dropped off the other hikers’ backpacks.

I got really sunburnt legs. Not like usual sunburn but bright pink splotches. There was some lovely moisturising cream that had a smell of calamine and I thought, good that will do the trick and it worked. At least I didn’t have sore legs.

We had a swim in the pool and a lovely cup of tea. Then with our sundowners we saw the famous flock of crowned cranes flying over to the sand dunes on the other side. It was quite magnificient.

Wavecrest was in the news a lot lately as the owner successfully prevented mining exploration in the vicinity. The area is partly owned by the locals. It is a magical estuary and mining would have ruined the ecology irreparably. The crowned cranes only came back there because of good conservation management by the owner.

Dinner at Wavecrest was not as good as Mazeppa but similar – 4 course meal. The coffee was horrible – lousy – only Nescafe and coffeelets. Life’s too short for a lousy cup of coffee.

The four hikers we met at Mazeppa were doing the Meander from Cob Inn to Morgan’s Bay. We had dinner with them here. The next day they went on to Seagulls whereas we went to Trennery’s. forgotten their names already!

15.2.2006

6am. We took a canoe and paddled up the Nxaxo River. There are actually two rivers converging at 1 mouth. We saw some spectacular birds. The crowned cranes flew away from the beach. 2 fish eagles were spotted. One we surprised and flew out right in front of us. Thrills.… Amongst others we saw malachite kingfishers, hornbills that fly like torpedoes, knysna lourie, curlew, and lots of small birds. Also spotted were hundreds of crabs with red pincers, vervit monkeys and tree dassies.

We stopped at a jetty to walk a bit in the forest. A mistake as the flies were the genuine biting kind. Stopped for a wee and the damned things bit me on the bum OUCH. We had a good breakfast with the UK hikers and started our hike at about 10am – a bit late but good for low tide.

Trenerry’s

So we started our hike to Trennery’s. The guide and four porters were waiting for the other hikers. They mistook us for them and when it was discovered that we were walking without a guide they were quite put out. I think we should have had a guide as the poverty is rife there and they want for everything. Also it would have been safer for us – who knows what sort of potential danger was waiting for us. And then of course the porters would have carried our rucksacks for a mere R30 a day.

Well, we didn’t have a guide so did not get to walk through the natural forest but took the path down to the sea. This was a mistake as it meant rock-hopping and bundu bashing which was not fun. I like a simple walk. Then we got into the hills and it was far nicer. This walk wasn’t as nice as the previous day’s.

We crossed the Kobonqaba River at low tide. We took off out takkies and waded across. The others had a canoe organised for them. Which was ridiculous as there was so little water. We stopped at the Jacaranda for lunch. This wreck is getting smaller. The beach was not what I remembered it to be. Also there were no oysters this time. Oyster catchers yes.

We came across quite a few poachers of perlemoen and crayfish. They have a smart network and it will be v difficult for the authorities to catch them.

When we got to Trennery’s we couldn’t find the beach entrance so walked all the way round. This time it was R350 DBB no packed lunch included – just as well as we still have left overs from the other two days. This was fine by us anyway. Distance: 14km

Had a nice cuppa and a swim in the pool. Had a hot bath for a change (not often are there baths in the units these days). We sat on the stoep and watched the rain close in. dinner at 7.30pm.

Before dinner we went to Seagulls where our newly acquired English friends were staying. The hotel served oysters at the bar which was v nice but we had not paid for them so didn’t eat any – good on us!

kei mouth & morgan bay

16.2.2006

We overslept for the first time this whole holiday. Just made it for breakfast at 8.25am….dearie me….

Saw our English friends while paying the bill. They were going on one of Trevor’s Trails, which we decided not to do. It was overcast and much cooler – a nice change.

We left Trennery’s at 9h30, cool and cloudy. At Trennery’s there was a group of hikers (I think they were a company doing team building or such. Anyway they left at the same time as us with a guide. The stretch of beach between Trennery’s and Kei mouth is not that great. No oysters this time…actually maybe three. It was slightly raining when we reached Kei mouth at about 11am. The ferry was on the other side so we had to wait till there were enough people that side to come over. The big group turned up after us. Suddenly the ferry crossed over the river. I think it was because of the influx of people this side. The trouble was, the group’s lunch hadn’t arrived so they didn’t embark. We did – shot onto the boat right away. Their guide told the ferryman their plight so it meant another wait. Ah but did it…lo and behold, a little bakkie came buzzing down the hill and onto the ferry. The ferry promptly moved off, leaving the big group behind. Yay! Cost of ferry R1.

Then it was the Hog-Mor-Kei route to Morgan’s Bay. It would have been a nice walk if it wasn’t wettish and Alan wanted to get on. I did a bit of complaining as it was hard keeping up. We walked past Cape Morgan Lighthouse (est. 1964) and then down to the beach. Had a rest and left overs from yesterday. Kei mouth to Morgan Bay 5.5km

Arrived at Morgan Bay Hotel at 1.15pm and decided to have some lunch. Actually Alan had some and I just had coke. All the hotel food had filled me up. We decided not to stay the night. This is after all one of the stops.

Walked up the hill out of M Bay and watched some geese who decided to all run into the dam at the same time. Came across a woman who was selling beads from bead beach. She had 7 but we only bought 1 having only a R10 and then a R100 note. Should have just given her the R100 and taken them all. Downhill to Double mouth – hard on the knees and Alan’s ankle. Found more bead girls but no money so we told them to come to Marsh Strand tomorrow. The crossing at Double Mouth was very easy, the one side closed. On we went, Alan waiting every so often. I know the way so it was ok. Got to Marsh Strand at 5pm. Quite wet and rainy the last bit. We were very tired but we saved R700!

17.2.2003

Thank goodness we finished the walk yesterday as it rained all day. I started to Century by Michael Molloy. Pete went back to Queenstown with all his shells and the decoder.No tv...never mind.

Mdumbi beach backpackers

19.2.2006 Sunday

Drove back to Coffee Bay and Mdumbi Beach Backpackers. Took about 3 ½ hours. Stopped at Komga for money.

Met and made friends with Hyman, Johan, Yann (Norwegian), Gertruide, and Atsky. Hyman and Johan run the place. Johan’s from Lusikisiki.

Mdumbi is an old mission. The cross can still be seen outside one of the buildings that used to be the church. In 2002 it was turned into a backpackers. The accommodation is traditional huts with a communal ablution block. I prefer to have my own loo. A friendly place. Frances tells me the backpackers is a front for a crayfishing concern. Illicit or not? I don’t know.

Presley's bay

20.2.2006 Monday

We hiked all the way to Presley's Bay in the hope of finding shells but found very little. Cool weather. We crossed Mdumbi River and found a good diving spot 1km from the river. It is a magic beach with an island of milkwoods. Goats cattle etc all along the way. Very few birds – no oyster catchers and no oysters. We did find shells 2 beaches south of Lwandile Point.

Lwandile Beach is very nice. Presley Bay is ok. Alan dived in the sea and trod on a sea urchin. Arsehole – his words. Surgery on beach with Magiver knife. Got one thorn out the other was difficult. (Eventually festered its way out weeks later). Cottages to let - check the internet. The hike took 3 hours there and 3 hours back. With stops. 9km one way

21.2.2003 Tuesday

Very wet and rainy. Read the whole day practically. Mike Molloy’s book was thick so it was just as well I had it. We went and had a cooked breakfast at the café. R20 each. Chatted and then went back to hut to read again.

Later that afternoon, after trying his hand a surfing (not v successful), Alan went to a shebeen with Yann to buy some black label – R8.50 a quart. We had a fantastic seafood dinner – cob and prawns for R50 plus some of Johan’s birthday cake. It was a Mississippi mud cake. Delish. Alan thought I was too scared to go to the shebeen but actually Yann only invited him. I think that Alan was worried for me…

22.2.2006 Wednesday

Chilled at Mdumbi backpackers. Walked around to Anchorage…almost 2.5km. Finished the book and then read the Sunday Times. Finally went to the shebeen to buy more beer and also eggs. The eggs came in a plastic packet.

23.2.2006 Thursday

A beautiful day – went down to beach and saw a herd of cattle in the sea with a lot of horses. We think they were salt-dipping the animals. V. interesting. The Xhosa kids were having fun with the horses. One got thrown by his horse. Big joke. Everyone laughed - Ha ha. Alan tried his hand with the lure. Went back and packed up paid and cheers. As we were leaving we saw the QE II just below Mdumbi. It was really close in to shore and was quite spectacular.

Stayed one more night at Marsh Strand. It was cloudy and cool.

Since getting back home have done nothing with the shells so far. I think we won’t be collecting shells in a very serious way – far to tedious.

24.2.2006 Friday

Island Vibe backpackers

Left the Wild Coast and drove down to J Bay to Island Vibe backpackers. A pleasnt afternoon. Walked down to the beach and along to Marina Martinique. Walskip Restaurant was on the beach. In fact the floor was the sand. A bit pricey tho’. Met two girls at the backpackers and had supper with them. One was American and so we had an interesting time.

25.2.2006 Saturday

Back home on the ranch to Nuggett who we couldn’t find at first. A very pleasant holiday and one we will do again so that we can say we walked the whole WILD COAST.