2009-06-09 Botswana Trip
Getting started
Have been packing to leave for the last three months. Been having a great time messing about in ‘The Savoy’. Last minute things now like clothes and food…will leave home this arvy.
Travelled to Outside Springbok (Soebatsfontein rd) and parked off the side of road. Four hours travelling from home got there past 9pm. Very windy and had to close down the tent and sleep in the bak due to the noise. A squeeze but cozy.
Wednesday 10.6.09 - Driving
Woke up after the dawn! Left at 9am and stopped at Steinkopf for diesel.
Arrived at Vioolsdrif border post – a breeze. Got to Noordoewer and a very nice police officer stopped us and said he had to give us a ‘penalt’ for not wearing seat belts. Just for crossing the Orange river without belts! Crap. Anyway we were very sorry and nice and he took Alan’s drivers. Off we went to customs. Same lady there as in November. Back to get the licence and pay the fine. Luckily it was just a warning. Was he testing us?
A long drive ahead. After Grunau and before Keetmanshoop we found a padstalletjie selling biltong. Beautiful area, granite bolders and hilly countryside. Stopped and bought some. Campsites in this area.
Lots of Black rivers here – Swartskaap, Swartmodder, Swartsand and Swartz. Past Keetmanshoop diesel getting low… stopped at Asab but no luck. Panic?? Drive slowly. Red light came on 80km from Mariental. Alan blamed me. Anyway we got to Mariental with 1.7l left in tank. Whew.
4.30pm and on we go to get to Windhoek at least. Drove past Rehoboth at 6.45pm – lots of traffic. Travelled on to Windhoek. Getting close to the metropolis – rd suddenly busy. Decided to carry on to Okahandja.
Stopped after 9pm at Kings Way. ‘Christian’ organisation. Nice ablutions but very noisy. Woke up early and left at 7am.
Thursday 11.6.09 – Travel weary
On to Otjiwarongo, saw our first kudu. Thick cloud with light drizzle. Can you believe it.
Otjiwarongo at 9am. Filled up. Nice and cold but sunny now. Long, long drive..
Getting into Frances’s CD “Corduroy Mansions”
Rundu at 3.30pm. filled up and got a nice piece of rump
Ngepi Camp at 5.30 on the Kavango River. Hippos and crocs! No hot showers … grrrr. Alan gippo’ed.
Friday 12.6.09 – Caprivi Strip
Left Ngepi, nice but over-rated at about 10am. Caprivi strip is quite boring.
Kwando Camp at lunchtime. On the Kwando river. These camps are still v colonial and lovely. We’re the only campers so far. The river is really high and a lot of the chalets are in and partly submerged in the water. It hasn’t been this high since 1969.
Saturday 13.6.09 – The Mighty Zambezi
We were going to have an eland steak but the asking price was R140. Not for us. So we decided NOT to chill for two days and packed up to move on to Katima Mulilo. Took the road less travelled but was not v interesting but is in the process of being tarred.
Katy Sharpe at Tutwe information and tourism kiosk gave us some advice.
Namwi camp was very commercial – cost R90pp – not for us
Kalizo Lodge: we were told the road was very bad from the floods and be careful not to get stuck. We took the road anyway. A 2x4 would have managed it fine.
So here we are on the mighty Zambezi river. And Alan has a fishing trip to look forward to tomorrow. The river is high – lots of rains.
Lots of pied kingfishers. Red breasted roller, wagtails, blue waxbill, green African pigeon, grey loerie,
Had a braai with the lodge. Lots of meat, not wonderful.
Sunday 14.6.09 – Catching Fish and Watching Birds
8am – Alan went fishing with a guide. Came back at 1pm. Caught a foot long tiger fish but no photo to prove it.
I was Mrs Tittlemouse and cleaned the floor! Read my book…
Kalizo Lodge is very pleasant .
Monday 15.6.09 – Enter Botswana
Grey Loerie, green African dove, black collared barbet,.
To the Ngoma bridge border. Easy crossing – no meat ate all the biltong beforehand.
Travelled a few km and saw a giraffe! Yay! Elephant, baboons, and African ground hornbills. Vulnerable birds.
Kasane: Botswana Info Centre. They told us we wouldn’t get in to Savuti or Linyanti. Off to Sududu Gate – Chobe park main entrance. Paid park fees for three days. Tomorrow we’re off to a game drive.
Kubu Loge; P65
Chobi Safari lodge; P65 – v crowded, first come first served
Ngeni safari camp; P50 may stay there next.
But we stayed at Toro Lodge P65 coz we paid as everything was filling up. Toro Lodge is commercial
Lost our number plate. Poor fixing.
Also checked out Marios meat market. Nice cheap beef.
Tuesday 16.6.09 – The Wild things
Off to a reasonably early start to do the Chobe river route. All the way to Ngoma gate. We saw:- impala, giraffe, wart hog, buffalo bulls, elephant – one was the hugest we’ve ever seen; zebra, water buck, And birds. Lots of lilac breasted rollers, white faced ducks, stilts, yellow billed stork, fish eagle, spoon bills,
Alan was telling me about the lions in the Kalahari when we drove past this elephant almost on top of him. If his tusk hadn’t been in his mouth he would have touched him! Alan just put foot, he got quite a skrik.
Across the transit road to find Kavimba community camp – but it was closed. Also Buffalo ridge camp. Back to Sedudu to ask about staying at Savuti for at least one night. Other travellers told us that the road from Savuti to Moremi was under water and we’d need a whole day just to get there from Savuti. They also saw wild dogs…
Mr Kookilwe at Sedudu said it was a huge problem to get a campsite at Savuti but when he heard we’d paid for four days park fees he said he’d look into it. So we have to wait and see and go back on Thursday. Otherwise we will camp wild…ja.
Stayed at Ngina Safari camp.
Wednesday 17.6.09 –Two Rivers and Four Countries
Chilled at Kasane. Found a local African market where we bought beans, leaves to make a relish and some pretty material for Frances. Looked at an expensive art gallery – overrated. Had a number plate made at Kasane computers. To the Spar for provisions.
Went to where to two rivers and four countries meet. Chobe and Zambezi. Countries: Namibia, Botswana, Zambia and Zim. Impressive. Met Rocky who tried hard to get money out of us by telling us all about the rivers – erroneously as it turned out.
Mario’s meat market for fillet, kudu and wors. Had the most wonderful braai. Eat your heart out!!
Thursday 18.6.09 – Savuti here we come
Went back to Sedudu and had a chat with Mr Ndadi. Guess what? He got us a spot at Savuti for 2 nights. Nothing like perseverance. So off we went and had a safety check and told how to drive.
A new road is being built by the Chinese but at present the road is slow and 4x4 is necessary. Saw a few Elephant on the way. Got here at about 2pm.
Lilac breasted roller came and caught ants right next to us. Elephant, Wilderbeest, giraffe, impala and some lovely kudu at entrance to Saviti camp.
Ate wors and rolls and eggs. Went out at about 4 to look for wild dog. Saw none. Came back and Alan was totally miz. D&V. firing from both ends. He couldn’t even make the ablution block. We both thought the end of the world had arrived.
Friday 19.6.09 - Where the Wild Dogs are
Alan woke up hungry, feeling better. Off we went looking for wild dog. Met Gregg Anderson and his mum, Val. Very chatty. Knows all about everything just like Alan.
PM: out again after a warm shower – hot water very scarce here – and tea. Drive, drive, drive – nothing. Elephant blocked the way so we reversed and took another turn. And there were the wild dogs!!! Six in all right in front of us and then they passed us – a metre away. Fantastic! We did a turn round the block hoping to catch them again and we did. They were having their supper after killing an impala. 10 were there. One female was pregnant so wasn’t there. One alpha male went back to give her some of the meat.
Mission accomplished.
Saturday 20.6.09 – A day of Adventure – Savuti to Moremi
What an exhilarating day we had! We left Savuti at 8am and mistakenly took a wrong turn and came to Moremi on the Marsh rd instead of the Sand ridge rd. At first it was v easy and we saw our first blackbacked jackal, some zebra and a magnificent tawny eagle being hassled by some crowned plovers. Also tsessebe.
Then, we came to some muddy tracks. Alan’s judgement was a bit suspect as there was a hard track on the right. Although this did have an elephant hole. We got half way through the mud when we got stuck! Oh crap. Out with the brand new max tracks. At first they didn’t work and Alan used a spade. Then we discovered that if you reverse slightly before inserting them it works like a charm. Thank goodness. We were both a bit anxious to say the least. The rest of the trip was a piece of cake as most of the road had dried out by now. It must have last been used two weeks ago as there were v few tracks. Only the last buggers that battled all the way through the wet.
We found Kwai campsite quite easily. Elephants roaming under the trees. Had lunch and headed for Moremi park. A long drive with many detours and mud. Everyone very lax here. We drove as far as the hippo pool. It was lovely. We saw some water buck on the way. Birds; Saddle billed stork, African jacana, knob nosed duck, white faced ducks and also the hippos of course. It took a long time and we only got back here at 6.30 dark already.
Now for some kudu steak.
Kudu steak and spud with tomato salad was delish.
Sunday 21.6.09 - Squatting
Set off at about 8am to go back to Moremi North gate. Got completely disorientated. Many roads leading all over the place but eventually ending at Kwai Village.
On to Xanakaxa for late tea. Not a lot of game. But we helped a vehicle out of the sand with our MAX TRAX. Saved the day. I think they were really pleased. Exchanged travel tips.
At Xanakaxa we refilled the water tank. Lets hope it doesn’t taste like diesel…
On to Third Bridge as there was no space for us. By-passed 3rd bridge in favour of Mboma Island where we wanted to go for a boat trip on the Delta. Mboma island is 16km further and really isolated. We took a trip in a mokoro as the boat engine was not working. So now we’ve been on the Okavango.
At Third bridge there were lots of animals. Zebra, lechwe, impala, one giraffe lying down, wart hogs,
The reception spot at Mboma Island boat station looked really nice so we asked Alen, Benjamin and Daniel if we could spend the night. We have had ‘engine problems’ so they let us stay. We gave them P150.
More kudu steak for supper. Yummy.
Monday 22.6.09 – Stuck in the Mud
Had a great rest at Mboma Island boat station. Got up bright and early as we heard lions in the distance. Said Cheers to the three blokes and were off before 7. Not quite. The sludge right at the boat station held us up. Alan made the royal fuckup of being in too much of a hurry so we got stuck in the mud! Get out the max trax. They didn’t work. The diff was on the ground. Get out Rodney’s jack. It didn’t work. Panic stations. Eventually, Benjamin, Alen, Daniel and the other one push us backwards out with the help of the max trax. Alan didn’t make the same mistake and we were off albeit and hour later. We missed the lions. Not many animals on Mboma island. We saw some elephant running like mad. We think it was because Alan clapped two planks together to clean them of mud. The riverine forest was spectacular and we did see leopard spoor.
Moremi is a bit disappointing although we saw some smashing birds. Wattled cranes dancing, two fish eagles, African ground hornbills, yellow-billed stork, striped kingfisher. The usual animals.
It was a long drive to Mankwe. We got here at about 3.30. Staying at Mopani campsite. Apparently the hyenas come and steal whatever they can.
Alan has made some nice bread rolls. Having soup for supper.
The gate controls are very lax and we just drove out of Moremi without a by your leave. They don’t know where we are.
Tuesday 23.6.09 – Maun and the Internet café
Left for Maun. Stopped at a traditional accommodation place. Discovery B&B. nice mud rondavels. Basket place wasn’t there but we bought some mats and wood from the side of the road.
Stopped in front of internet café in Maun. Free wireless access. Skyped Frances and then wrote a long e-mail but lost it before sending it off. Then the computer died. Getting late. Bought food, fuel and booze.
Off to Ghanzi. Vetinary fence doesn’t allow transport of meat south so had to buy the meat in Ghanzi. Stayed at Thakadu camp. ‘The rampant aardvark’. Very nice and unpretentious with a lit up water hole. Saw eland and birds. Then we had eland steaks for supper at the restaurant. Lovely char-grilled with chips.
First freezing night. Made hotties for the first time.
Wednesday 24.6.09 – Freezing Bushmen
Thakadu is really nice and we went for a walk with bushmen in the morning. Robert the interpreter was v good and we were shown some of the medicinal plants and a die plant. The little bushmen dressed up in their skins and were so cold we felt so bad. The fire they made was done quickly in order to get warm.
Travelled on the back roads to Phoswane camp in the Kaa Kalahari. Very remote, it feels like but there are always some cattle men around. Saw some buck, wildebeest, ostrich and also pale chanting goshawk.
Thursday 25.6.09 – The Road less travelled
Woke up quite late to silence. Cold and still but lovely. Had a hot shower out in the open and moved on to find where to pay. Arrived at Ngwantle village and paid P110 for the night. Includes concession fee of P50
At Matleseng pan we saw red hartebeest for the first time. Also springbok and ostrich.
Carried on to Kaa Gate. Drove on the cutline – a fire break which is very wide and sandy. Alan drove fast and furiously. He had fun. Got to Kaa about 3pm and had a nice chat to the warden. Our red light came on just before we got there so we filled up with our extra diesel.
Another 33km to Thupapedi camp. Saw eland for the first time in the Kalahari. Really big and fat. Also gemsbok, hartebeest and jackal.
Made a fire and had Botswana beef with roast veggies for supper. Unfortunately have to go back to Kaa gate to get back to our next stop.
Heard that SA are playing Brazil in the semi-final confed cup. Yay.
Friday – 26.6.09 – Eland
Got up early and were off at crack of dawn. Saw more eland. They were fantastic. Travelled a long way to Polentswa camp. Did not see a lot in the north. Got to Polentswa early and had a rest. Alan made bread.
Saturday 27.6.09 – King of the Beasts
Early start again and we saw the most beautiful lion walking towards us at Polentswa turnoff. He got a bit skrikkerig as he passed but he just carried on walking. It was just wonderful.
At Nossob we made use of the ablutions and had a shower, did washing and had fried eggs for breakfast. Camp was deserted as everyone had gone out to spot a lion.
Carried on down the road and witnessed the invasion of school kids on holiday. At about 2pm we decided not to stop at the main picnic spot and then proceeded to spot a Honey badger and just after that 2 bat-eared foxes. And then we also saw our first secretary bird.
Had our lovely quiet lunch at Auchterlonie.
On to Rooiputs – road closed so we had to go round via Two Rivers. Gemsbok on the dunes right next to us. Pasta for supper.
Sunday 28.6.09 – Back to SA
Had a leisurely breakfast of jungle oats. Then decided to wash up at Twee Rivieren. Got to the border post and there is a lovely new building with both Botswana and South Africa Immigration together.
At Twee rivieren there was such an influx of holiday goers that we decided to move on. We filled up at Askam and inflated the tyres. Stopped at Upington for some lunch and supper. Went to Kanoneiland across the Orange river. Very interesting.
On to Kenhardt. Stopped at padstalletjie and asked about the rock engravings. Were referred to Alma the Chatterbox from Bushmanland B&B. she took us to some etchings just outside town. We are now staying on the farm of Frank (sister Cathy, who can also chat). Camping under an acacia. Making potjie with Karoo beef.
Monday 29.6.09 – Over the Karroo
Wasted time chatting to the Goliaths. They are keen to get onto the tourism wagon but haven’t a clue. Left Kenhardt at about 10am and travelled via Brandvlei and Middelpos to Sutherland. A very beautiful part of the country. We travelled down the Vis rivier valley and there is a lot of water around from all the rain last week. We stopped at a murasie and walked to it. A lovely place.
Arrived at Sutherland about 3pm. Asked about going to SALT but the tour was fully booked – school holidays. Sutherland is a thriving little place. Altitude 1550m, Population 2030. we had coffed (lousy) and a nice pancake at Halley se Kom eet. Bought chicken to make a potjie for supper
Spent the night at Veverlatenkloof camp on the pass to Matjiesfontein. It was nice. The showers were hot using a donkey boiler. Sat in the skerm and made our potjie. Wind blew a bit during the night.
Tuesday 30.6.09
Decided to go to the Tankwa Karoo National park. Drove and drove and then we came to a sign where it said to go the way we’d come. Not going back. Travelled the Karoo to De Bos and then turned left to get to Uitspankraal at Doring river with Biedouw valley beyond. A long drive but very interesting. Winding 4x4 pass down to Uitspankraal. Alas, the river was 2m higher than normal. Crap. We had to go all the way round via Botterkloof to Doringbos to cross there. On home. Road alterations held us up on Pakhuis.
Invited ourselves to supper with the Burtons.
A great trip but a long journey -6680km altogether.
