Back to February 2006 when we did our first exploration of the Wild Coast beyond the Kei.
Coffee bay
6.2.2006 – Monday
Off to Coffee Bay with Peter at the wheel of his massive 4x4. Arrived at the Coffee Shack and got the Top House, a lovely little chalet. Got our first beer free. The Coffee Shack is situated on Bomvu Bay and Coffee Bay is just over a little hill. Coffee Bay is named such because a ship carrying coffee in the 19th century got wrecked there and trees even grew from the beans so they say. There is no evidence of this anymore.
Do not feed the dogs! But Alan did so the animal stayed forever.
Alan went fishing after lunch and took a gillie named Michael who stank to high heaven. No luck with the fishing tho’.
8.2.2006
To Anchorage Hotel. We had to travel inland to get over the Mtata River at the bridge. The scenery is fantastic but marred by the weed Lantana – horrible stuff and in full flower. It stinks and has thorns. Anchorage is a lovely spot. We saw one of the locals catch a beaut cob. We had some sarmies at the hotel – v good value but took forever.
Alan and I walked back to Coffee Bay while Pete drove. It is a v. beautiful area for all the poverty. Huts, cliffs, river mouths. We had to cross the Mtata Mouth by ferry. R7 for the two of us. Mapuzi River was great. We walked past a beautiful aloe forest. At Mapuzi mouth we had to wade through the river. There were a lot of Mangrove swamps too. It went up to my chest, almost. The hike took 2½ hours - 7km. We braaied lamb chops for supper.
Every evening at Bomvu Backpackers they have locals playing drums. It sounds quite pleasant in the African night although not to everyone's taste.
Hole in the wall
9.2.2006
Drove to Hole in the Wall with Pete at the wheel. There were lovely fairy forests walking to the rock and it made me think of Ronnie. We had some tea on the rocks where fishermen where doing their thing.
Again we walked back to Coffee Bay. I must say it was very useful to have Pete do all the driving, as he never wanted to walk unless it was to shells. The hike was hardly along the coast and we had to go up and down which is not my favourite way. I preferred the other hike. It wasn’t difficult but tiring. I think Alan wanted to go too quickly again. We saw a beach I think we should have hiked on. This is when a guide is a good idea. Super dive spot along the way. Sea clean as a whistle. We popped in a White Clay hotel and got the tariffs. The last bit was on the road over the hill back to C Bay. Took 3½ hours. 10km. Back at 2pm.
At 4pm we drove back to Mdumbi beach. This is the best beach in SA according to Getaway Magazine December 2003. Pete looked for shells, we did too. We walked to Mdumbi Mouth which is about 600m. this means we have now walked from Mdumbi Mouth to Hole in the Wall.
We saw surfers. This may be why the beach is so revered:- According to Coast to Coast it has a Classic Point Break, which is great for surfing (whatever that means). Getaway magazine regards in one of the best in SA.
Belinda, the receptionist at Coffee Shack, was extremely friendly and helpful.
Xora mouth
10.2.2006
Friday and we packed up for Xora Mouth where Pete had booked accommodation for us at one of the houses.
We filled up at Mtata and I bought some provisions, no meat but who cares. The road off the N2 was ok at first and then it deteriorated. Just as well we didn’t take the car. But we got there at lunchtime and it was really nice except the water is min, very min. (Rain water tanks all over the place).
This is the place Pete calls the most magnificent in the world. Oy. Well, he could be right. It’s a beaut estuary. While he went shelling we swam across the mouth of the lagoon and it was quite a strong current. Saw canoes but there were no paddles.
The breezy point walk
11.2.2006
Today we decided to become shell collectors. We started off quite early in the morning to walk to Breezy Point, which is also fantastic plek for surfers. The book said it was a 90-minute walk. Huh! We picked up stacks of shells and came across some chaps collecting little marine fish. This gave us another idea to start this hobby. We have since found out that it is illegal to collect these sweet little creatures. I must say I think they are better off in the wild. We reckon the reason there are so many shells around here is because of the vertical rock structure that goes out 90o to the sea. This makes gullies.
It is a lovely walk with mostly long beautiful beaches and a few small lagoons that were all closed. The cattle come down to the beach a lot. I think it is because they find it nice and cool as it is very humid there and the sea air just keeps things ok. There were also a lot of goats.
We walked past a small shipwreck called Aquilla II – Den Haag – Holland. Alan reckons it was someone’s dream. We found a few oysters on the beach so had a pleasant snack. We’ve had oysters every day so far!
We also had a nude swim and Alan did a bit of diving. We walked the whole way barefoot and it was about 6hrs all together. 3 ½ hours there and 2 ½ hours back. We were doing other things going there. 8km one way.
At Breezy Point a friendly dog came and latched onto us. He walked all the way back and stayed with us for the rest of the stay. Alan gave him some old bait the next day and then he became very protective of us. There were some friendly tsotsis who turned up and suddenly they were chased away by the dog. Not us!
At Xora we saw what we thought was a cattle sale – a lot of people and a lot of animals – cattle, horses etc.
Got back to find Pete’s bakkie with another flat.
12.2.2006
Then Alan took Pete across the Xora River in one of the canoes without paddles. He went walking for two hours; we spent the day on the beach. Alan snorkelled and found some coral reef fishes.
Later that afternoon Alan tried to catch a fish but the bait kept being nibbled off.
Six things to do at Xora: (at least) Birding, Shell collecting, Canoeing, Horse riding (we didn’t), Snorkelling, Fishing, Oyster collecting along the beach, Walking and last but not least – cooking food.
Bulungula 13.2.2006
Before moving on to Mazeppa Bay we got up early and walkied along to Bulungula Backpackers which is across the Xora – 2km. Alan got the canoe and nearly drowned helping me across. Bulungula is a lovely place, using traditional huts and helping the locals by giving them shares in the place. Only thing was lack of water so the loos were pit-loos and that put me off a bit. We chatted to Dave the owner and he was a very nice guy!
Got back to the house at about 10am packed and went to Mazeppa.
Mazeppa bay
It took us all of 4 hours to drive around from Xora to Mazeppa! What a trip and we didn’t stop once. Finally arrived there about 3pm and looked around for a backpackers or something similar but resorted to the hotel as this seemed to be the only place to stay. R385/night DBB plus a packed lunch for the hike. We took it coz we couldn’t leave it.
The hotel has been fixed up quite well with new thatch and all but there could have been major improvements in the design – us having done this sort of thing always notices discrepancies instead of just enjoying it.
We went down to the beach where there is a bridge across to the island. Alan and I then walked around the place a bit. It’s a nice place but not that interesting from a shell collecting point of view. I expect there is good fishing on a good day.
We had a nice swanky dinner – 4 courses and Pete got a bit tiddly and talked loudly. We came across some hikers who were doing the Wild Coast Meander. Not many other people in the hotel. The food was good especially the pudding – Amarula panne cotta.
14.2.2006 valentine Pa would have been 90
Next morning breakfast and then we parted company with Peter. And went off on our hike along the coast to Wave Crest. Took along our packed lunches – even Pete got a cheap thrill from this. And he wasn’t even hiking!
We started the 21km hike to Wavecrest at 8.45am. Very easy walking along long beaches and a load of fun. Not many shells. After 1 ½ hours we came to a tidal pool. It looked like no one was around so we skinny dipped. It was wonderful as we were quite hot and humid and the little tropical fishes were incredible. No oysters though – too difficult to get a hold of.
Another 2hours along the way we stopped under some ‘trees’ for lunch. There we saw two black guys walking past and checking us out. Do we panic or don’t we. We kept our cool as they returned to where they had been.
Packed lunch: sarmies, liquifruit, yoghurt, valentine chocolate, funky fruit stick, cheddar bites, peach etc.
Cebe
We came to this tiny little hamlet. On entering the sign showed us “welcome to Cebe”. We walked through ‘main st’ in a minute flat and across “Boys Bridge” back to the beach. This little plek was about an hour from Wavecrest.
This was a long walk and just as well we started early as by the end we were getting into the soft sand due to tide coming in. We came across 2 oyster catchers who were in a panic about us walking past them. They must be guarding eggs – such sweet little things.
Nxaxo mouth and Wavecrest
We arrived at Nxaxo mouth at 2.45pm and then had to wait for the ferry to fetch us across to Wavecrest hotel. It being Spring tides the poor little ferryman had great difficulty getting the boat across against the tide but he managed in the end. Going back was easy, as he just had to guide the boat over the water. This was where Alan lost his stick. Not exactly lost it but left it on the east bank. We saw it stuck in the sand but then the porters took it off with them once they had dropped off the other hikers’ backpacks.
I got really sunburnt legs. Not like usual sunburn but bright pink splotches. There was some lovely moisturising cream that had a smell of calamine and I thought, good that will do the trick and it worked. At least I didn’t have sore legs.
We had a swim in the pool and a lovely cup of tea. Then with our sundowners we saw the famous flock of crowned cranes flying over to the sand dunes on the other side. It was quite magnificient.
Wavecrest was in the news a lot lately as the owner successfully prevented mining exploration in the vicinity. The area is partly owned by the locals. It is a magical estuary and mining would have ruined the ecology irreparably. The crowned cranes only came back there because of good conservation management by the owner.
Dinner at Wavecrest was not as good as Mazeppa but similar – 4 course meal. The coffee was horrible – lousy – only Nescafe and coffeelets. Life’s too short for a lousy cup of coffee.
The four hikers we met at Mazeppa were doing the Meander from Cob Inn to Morgan’s Bay. We had dinner with them here. The next day they went on to Seagulls whereas we went to Trennery’s. forgotten their names already!
15.2.2006
6am. We took a canoe and paddled up the Nxaxo River. There are actually two rivers converging at 1 mouth. We saw some spectacular birds. The crowned cranes flew away from the beach. 2 fish eagles were spotted. One we surprised and flew out right in front of us. Thrills.… Amongst others we saw malachite kingfishers, hornbills that fly like torpedoes, knysna lourie, curlew, and lots of small birds. Also spotted were hundreds of crabs with red pincers, vervit monkeys and tree dassies.
We stopped at a jetty to walk a bit in the forest. A mistake as the flies were the genuine biting kind. Stopped for a wee and the damned things bit me on the bum OUCH. We had a good breakfast with the UK hikers and started our hike at about 10am – a bit late but good for low tide.
Trenerry’s
So we started our hike to Trennery’s. The guide and four porters were waiting for the other hikers. They mistook us for them and when it was discovered that we were walking without a guide they were quite put out. I think we should have had a guide as the poverty is rife there and they want for everything. Also it would have been safer for us – who knows what sort of potential danger was waiting for us. And then of course the porters would have carried our rucksacks for a mere R30 a day.
Well, we didn’t have a guide so did not get to walk through the natural forest but took the path down to the sea. This was a mistake as it meant rock-hopping and bundu bashing which was not fun. I like a simple walk. Then we got into the hills and it was far nicer. This walk wasn’t as nice as the previous day’s.
We crossed the Kobonqaba River at low tide. We took off out takkies and waded across. The others had a canoe organised for them. Which was ridiculous as there was so little water. We stopped at the Jacaranda for lunch. This wreck is getting smaller. The beach was not what I remembered it to be. Also there were no oysters this time. Oyster catchers yes.
We came across quite a few poachers of perlemoen and crayfish. They have a smart network and it will be v difficult for the authorities to catch them.
When we got to Trennery’s we couldn’t find the beach entrance so walked all the way round. This time it was R350 DBB no packed lunch included – just as well as we still have left overs from the other two days. This was fine by us anyway. Distance: 14km
Had a nice cuppa and a swim in the pool. Had a hot bath for a change (not often are there baths in the units these days). We sat on the stoep and watched the rain close in. dinner at 7.30pm.
Before dinner we went to Seagulls where our newly acquired English friends were staying. The hotel served oysters at the bar which was v nice but we had not paid for them so didn’t eat any – good on us!
kei mouth & morgan bay
16.2.2006
We overslept for the first time this whole holiday. Just made it for breakfast at 8.25am….dearie me….
Saw our English friends while paying the bill. They were going on one of Trevor’s Trails, which we decided not to do. It was overcast and much cooler – a nice change.
We left Trennery’s at 9h30, cool and cloudy. At Trennery’s there was a group of hikers (I think they were a company doing team building or such. Anyway they left at the same time as us with a guide. The stretch of beach between Trennery’s and Kei mouth is not that great. No oysters this time…actually maybe three. It was slightly raining when we reached Kei mouth at about 11am. The ferry was on the other side so we had to wait till there were enough people that side to come over. The big group turned up after us. Suddenly the ferry crossed over the river. I think it was because of the influx of people this side. The trouble was, the group’s lunch hadn’t arrived so they didn’t embark. We did – shot onto the boat right away. Their guide told the ferryman their plight so it meant another wait. Ah but did it…lo and behold, a little bakkie came buzzing down the hill and onto the ferry. The ferry promptly moved off, leaving the big group behind. Yay! Cost of ferry R1.
Then it was the Hog-Mor-Kei route to Morgan’s Bay. It would have been a nice walk if it wasn’t wettish and Alan wanted to get on. I did a bit of complaining as it was hard keeping up. We walked past Cape Morgan Lighthouse (est. 1964) and then down to the beach. Had a rest and left overs from yesterday. Kei mouth to Morgan Bay 5.5km
Arrived at Morgan Bay Hotel at 1.15pm and decided to have some lunch. Actually Alan had some and I just had coke. All the hotel food had filled me up. We decided not to stay the night. This is after all one of the stops.
Walked up the hill out of M Bay and watched some geese who decided to all run into the dam at the same time. Came across a woman who was selling beads from bead beach. She had 7 but we only bought 1 having only a R10 and then a R100 note. Should have just given her the R100 and taken them all. Downhill to Double mouth – hard on the knees and Alan’s ankle. Found more bead girls but no money so we told them to come to Marsh Strand tomorrow. The crossing at Double Mouth was very easy, the one side closed. On we went, Alan waiting every so often. I know the way so it was ok. Got to Marsh Strand at 5pm. Quite wet and rainy the last bit. We were very tired but we saved R700!
17.2.2003
Thank goodness we finished the walk yesterday as it rained all day. I started to Century by Michael Molloy. Pete went back to Queenstown with all his shells and the decoder.No tv...never mind.
Mdumbi beach backpackers
19.2.2006 Sunday
Drove back to Coffee Bay and Mdumbi Beach Backpackers. Took about 3 ½ hours. Stopped at Komga for money.
Met and made friends with Hyman, Johan, Yann (Norwegian), Gertruide, and Atsky. Hyman and Johan run the place. Johan’s from Lusikisiki.
Mdumbi is an old mission. The cross can still be seen outside one of the buildings that used to be the church. In 2002 it was turned into a backpackers. The accommodation is traditional huts with a communal ablution block. I prefer to have my own loo. A friendly place. Frances tells me the backpackers is a front for a crayfishing concern. Illicit or not? I don’t know.
Presley's bay
20.2.2006 Monday
We hiked all the way to Presley's Bay in the hope of finding shells but found very little. Cool weather. We crossed Mdumbi River and found a good diving spot 1km from the river. It is a magic beach with an island of milkwoods. Goats cattle etc all along the way. Very few birds – no oyster catchers and no oysters. We did find shells 2 beaches south of Lwandile Point.
Lwandile Beach is very nice. Presley Bay is ok. Alan dived in the sea and trod on a sea urchin. Arsehole – his words. Surgery on beach with Magiver knife. Got one thorn out the other was difficult. (Eventually festered its way out weeks later). Cottages to let - check the internet. The hike took 3 hours there and 3 hours back. With stops. 9km one way
21.2.2003 Tuesday
Very wet and rainy. Read the whole day practically. Mike Molloy’s book was thick so it was just as well I had it. We went and had a cooked breakfast at the café. R20 each. Chatted and then went back to hut to read again.
Later that afternoon, after trying his hand a surfing (not v successful), Alan went to a shebeen with Yann to buy some black label – R8.50 a quart. We had a fantastic seafood dinner – cob and prawns for R50 plus some of Johan’s birthday cake. It was a Mississippi mud cake. Delish. Alan thought I was too scared to go to the shebeen but actually Yann only invited him. I think that Alan was worried for me…
22.2.2006 Wednesday
Chilled at Mdumbi backpackers. Walked around to Anchorage…almost 2.5km. Finished the book and then read the Sunday Times. Finally went to the shebeen to buy more beer and also eggs. The eggs came in a plastic packet.
23.2.2006 Thursday
A beautiful day – went down to beach and saw a herd of cattle in the sea with a lot of horses. We think they were salt-dipping the animals. V. interesting. The Xhosa kids were having fun with the horses. One got thrown by his horse. Big joke. Everyone laughed - Ha ha. Alan tried his hand with the lure. Went back and packed up paid and cheers. As we were leaving we saw the QE II just below Mdumbi. It was really close in to shore and was quite spectacular.
Stayed one more night at Marsh Strand. It was cloudy and cool.
Since getting back home have done nothing with the shells so far. I think we won’t be collecting shells in a very serious way – far to tedious.
24.2.2006 Friday
Island Vibe backpackers
Left the Wild Coast and drove down to J Bay to Island Vibe backpackers. A pleasnt afternoon. Walked down to the beach and along to Marina Martinique. Walskip Restaurant was on the beach. In fact the floor was the sand. A bit pricey tho’. Met two girls at the backpackers and had supper with them. One was American and so we had an interesting time.
25.2.2006 Saturday
Back home on the ranch to Nuggett who we couldn’t find at first. A very pleasant holiday and one we will do again so that we can say we walked the whole WILD COAST.
