Strandfontein Weekend at Caravan Park

2011.2.17-19 – Strandfontein Weekend at the Caravan Park

With us were Rodney, Chrissie, Gemma and Rob (came on Saturday)

Friday 17^th February

Left home later than intended at about 1pm. Alan wanted to use Manus Kotze’s kayak so we drove via Lambert’s Bay to collect it at his holiday home there. This was very interesting as it’s a gated community about 9km north of Lambert’s bay right on the coast – couldn’t get closer to the sea if you tried. His house is lovely but as usual we saw all the cracks and design faults. That’s the trouble with us; we can never appreciate something for what it is. Andre was also there. She obviously loves it as I would had we not bought our Savoy! But the kayak turned out to be a barge so we had a drink and moved on to Strandfontein.

This road between LB and Strandfontein belongs to the iron-ore company and would you believe it they demand a R30 fee for the use of it. It can’t be more than 25km and there’s a toll. Its not as if the iron-ore companies are skint or anything – Iniquitous is what I call it. Anyway we bribed the bloke and only paid R5. Bribery works.

Because we were late the Burtons got to Strandfontein before us. This became a problem as they didn’t know the place and instead of waiting for us booked a site far away from the sea. Now the lady at the desk insisted we pay for two sites which made it double. Not what we planned. We moved down to the sea-shore sites as that was important especially for me. I’d been looking forward to the sea for weeks.

A note about Strandfontein municipality and their caravan park: You have to pay a deposit of R320 (in cash) and then they will only deposit it back into your account afterwards. I am still waiting for the deposit to arrive in my bank account. This has put us off staying in the park again.

Each site has its own bathroom which is nice except our hot water didn’t work. Also there is nowhere to put anything – no shelves or bankies – v irritating.

Had a braai of sausage and pork rib.

Saturday 18^th February

Woke up later than usual which was nice. Decided to walk from Oliphant’s river mouth to Strandfontein. Drove to Papendorp in the Burton’s vehicle. Lots of water in the vlei and the salt pans were full of water. Probably from the high spring tides the day before.

The walk is nice and easy especially at spring low. Its about 7km – one of my favourites.

The Stotters turned up about half way so the boys went back to get the bakkie and we girls carried on. Didn’t see any oyster catchers this time…sigh.

Lunch of scotch eggs and cold meats and salads. Alan and Rob then went off to the estuary to canoe and try catch some fish. We rested and I had a lekker snooze – much needed. Walked around the village with the B’s. Had another braai of pork, lamb and sausage.

Sunday 19^th February

Breakfast of bacon and eggs. Suddenly everyone was getting ready to go and I was still in relax mode. You have to be out by 10am or pay another R90. Glory be!!! Anyway the B’s wanted to get off to see Roger. First to Doring Baai. Rob and Alan took the canoe out into the harbour and collected some mussels. The B’s collected kelp for their compost and Gemma took photos of the harbour and lighthouse. She makes money from her pics on some website that uses them as background features.

Gem and I also had a little paddle each. Then the B’s left for Roger and we went to have lunch at the Cabin Pub and restaurant, which has a deck that looks like a boat. V nice calamari but the chips were slap. We ran into Bette and Graham who were staying at a B&B nearby.

On our way home guess who was coming back from their trip to the Augrabies? Di and Richard. We invited ourselves for tea. They told us all about the falls and we tried to get a word in about the camping trip. I have to say that it is far nicer to stay at the house Di usually hires. r

Home after 6. Wish we could take Nuggett with us… sigh.

It was just wonderful to get away from the broiling valley even if it was just a couple of days.

Back to February 2006 when we did our first exploration of the Wild Coast beyond the Kei.

Coffee bay

6.2.2006 – Monday

Off to Coffee Bay with Peter at the wheel of his massive 4x4. Arrived at the Coffee Shack and got the Top House, a lovely little chalet. Got our first beer free. The Coffee Shack is situated on Bomvu Bay and Coffee Bay is just over a little hill. Coffee Bay is named such because a ship carrying coffee in the 19^th century got wrecked there and trees even grew from the beans so they say. There is no evidence of this anymore.

Do not feed the dogs! But Alan did so the animal stayed forever.

Alan went fishing after lunch and took a gillie named Michael who stank to high heaven. No luck with the fishing tho’.

8.2.2006

To Anchorage Hotel. We had to travel inland to get over the Mtata River at the bridge. The scenery is fantastic but marred by the weed Lantana – horrible stuff and in full flower. It stinks and has thorns. Anchorage is a lovely spot. We saw one of the locals catch a beaut cob. We had some sarmies at the hotel – v good value but took forever.

Alan and I walked back to Coffee Bay while Pete drove. It is a v. beautiful area for all the poverty. Huts, cliffs, river mouths. We had to cross the Mtata Mouth by ferry. R7 for the two of us. Mapuzi River was great. We walked past a beautiful aloe forest. At Mapuzi mouth we had to wade through the river. There were a lot of Mangrove swamps too. It went up to my chest, almost. The hike took 2½ hours - 7km. We braaied lamb chops for supper.

Every evening at Bomvu Backpackers they have locals playing drums. It sounds quite pleasant in the African night although not to everyone's taste.

Hole in the wall

9.2.2006

Drove to Hole in the Wall with Pete at the wheel. There were lovely fairy forests walking to the rock and it made me think of Ronnie. We had some tea on the rocks where fishermen where doing their thing.

Again we walked back to Coffee Bay. I must say it was very useful to have Pete do all the driving, as he never wanted to walk unless it was to shells. The hike was hardly along the coast and we had to go up and down which is not my favourite way. I preferred the other hike. It wasn’t difficult but tiring. I think Alan wanted to go too quickly again. We saw a beach I think we should have hiked on. This is when a guide is a good idea. Super dive spot along the way. Sea clean as a whistle. We popped in a White Clay hotel and got the tariffs. The last bit was on the road over the hill back to C Bay. Took 3½ hours. 10km. Back at 2pm.

At 4pm we drove back to Mdumbi beach. This is the best beach in SA according to Getaway Magazine December 2003. Pete looked for shells, we did too. We walked to Mdumbi Mouth which is about 600m. this means we have now walked from Mdumbi Mouth to Hole in the Wall.

We saw surfers. This may be why the beach is so revered:- According to Coast to Coast it has a Classic Point Break, which is great for surfing (whatever that means). Getaway magazine regards in one of the best in SA.

Belinda, the receptionist at Coffee Shack, was extremely friendly and helpful.

Xora mouth

10.2.2006

Friday and we packed up for Xora Mouth where Pete had booked accommodation for us at one of the houses.

We filled up at Mtata and I bought some provisions, no meat but who cares. The road off the N2 was ok at first and then it deteriorated. Just as well we didn’t take the car. But we got there at lunchtime and it was really nice except the water is min, very min. (Rain water tanks all over the place).

This is the place Pete calls the most magnificent in the world. Oy. Well, he could be right. It’s a beaut estuary. While he went shelling we swam across the mouth of the lagoon and it was quite a strong current. Saw canoes but there were no paddles.

The breezy point walk

11.2.2006

Today we decided to become shell collectors. We started off quite early in the morning to walk to Breezy Point, which is also fantastic plek for surfers. The book said it was a 90-minute walk. Huh! We picked up stacks of shells and came across some chaps collecting little marine fish. This gave us another idea to start this hobby. We have since found out that it is illegal to collect these sweet little creatures. I must say I think they are better off in the wild. We reckon the reason there are so many shells around here is because of the vertical rock structure that goes out 90^o to the sea. This makes gullies.

It is a lovely walk with mostly long beautiful beaches and a few small lagoons that were all closed. The cattle come down to the beach a lot. I think it is because they find it nice and cool as it is very humid there and the sea air just keeps things ok. There were also a lot of goats.

We walked past a small shipwreck called Aquilla II – Den Haag – Holland. Alan reckons it was someone’s dream. We found a few oysters on the beach so had a pleasant snack. We’ve had oysters every day so far!

We also had a nude swim and Alan did a bit of diving. We walked the whole way barefoot and it was about 6hrs all together. 3 ½ hours there and 2 ½ hours back. We were doing other things going there. 8km one way.

At Breezy Point a friendly dog came and latched onto us. He walked all the way back and stayed with us for the rest of the stay. Alan gave him some old bait the next day and then he became very protective of us. There were some friendly tsotsis who turned up and suddenly they were chased away by the dog. Not us!

At Xora we saw what we thought was a cattle sale – a lot of people and a lot of animals – cattle, horses etc.

Got back to find Pete’s bakkie with another flat.

12.2.2006

Then Alan took Pete across the Xora River in one of the canoes without paddles. He went walking for two hours; we spent the day on the beach. Alan snorkelled and found some coral reef fishes.

Later that afternoon Alan tried to catch a fish but the bait kept being nibbled off.

Six things to do at Xora: (at least) Birding, Shell collecting, Canoeing, Horse riding (we didn’t), Snorkelling, Fishing, Oyster collecting along the beach, Walking and last but not least – cooking food.

Bulungula

13.2.2006

Before moving on to Mazeppa Bay we got up early and walkied along to Bulungula Backpackers which is across the Xora – 2km. Alan got the canoe and nearly drowned helping me across. Bulungula is a lovely place, using traditional huts and helping the locals by giving them shares in the place. Only thing was lack of water so the loos were pit-loos and that put me off a bit. We chatted to Dave the owner and he was a very nice guy!

Got back to the house at about 10am packed and went to Mazeppa.

Mazeppa bay

It took us all of 4 hours to drive around from Xora to Mazeppa! What a trip and we didn’t stop once. Finally arrived there about 3pm and looked around for a backpackers or something similar but resorted to the hotel as this seemed to be the only place to stay. R385/night DBB plus a packed lunch for the hike. We took it coz we couldn’t leave it.

The hotel has been fixed up quite well with new thatch and all but there could have been major improvements in the design – us having done this sort of thing always notices discrepancies instead of just enjoying it.

We went down to the beach where there is a bridge across to the island. Alan and I then walked around the place a bit. It’s a nice place but not that interesting from a shell collecting point of view. I expect there is good fishing on a good day.

We had a nice swanky dinner – 4 courses and Pete got a bit tiddly and talked loudly. We came across some hikers who were doing the Wild Coast Meander. Not many other people in the hotel. The food was good especially the pudding – Amarula panne cotta.

14.2.2006 valentine Pa would have been 90

Next morning breakfast and then we parted company with Peter. And went off on our hike along the coast to Wave Crest. Took along our packed lunches – even Pete got a cheap thrill from this. And he wasn’t even hiking!

We started the 21km hike to Wavecrest at 8.45am. Very easy walking along long beaches and a load of fun. Not many shells. After 1 ½ hours we came to a tidal pool. It looked like no one was around so we skinny dipped. It was wonderful as we were quite hot and humid and the little tropical fishes were incredible. No oysters though – too difficult to get a hold of.

Another 2hours along the way we stopped under some ‘trees’ for lunch. There we saw two black guys walking past and checking us out. Do we panic or don’t we. We kept our cool as they returned to where they had been.

Packed lunch: sarmies, liquifruit, yoghurt, valentine chocolate, funky fruit stick, cheddar bites, peach etc.

Cebe

We came to this tiny little hamlet. On entering the sign showed us “welcome to Cebe”. We walked through ‘main st’ in a minute flat and across “Boys Bridge” back to the beach. This little plek was about an hour from Wavecrest.

This was a long walk and just as well we started early as by the end we were getting into the soft sand due to tide coming in. We came across 2 oyster catchers who were in a panic about us walking past them. They must be guarding eggs – such sweet little things.

Nxaxo mouth and Wavecrest

We arrived at Nxaxo mouth at 2.45pm and then had to wait for the ferry to fetch us across to Wavecrest hotel. It being Spring tides the poor little ferryman had great difficulty getting the boat across against the tide but he managed in the end. Going back was easy, as he just had to guide the boat over the water. This was where Alan lost his stick. Not exactly lost it but left it on the east bank. We saw it stuck in the sand but then the porters took it off with them once they had dropped off the other hikers’ backpacks.

I got really sunburnt legs. Not like usual sunburn but bright pink splotches. There was some lovely moisturising cream that had a smell of calamine and I thought, good that will do the trick and it worked. At least I didn’t have sore legs.

We had a swim in the pool and a lovely cup of tea. Then with our sundowners we saw the famous flock of crowned cranes flying over to the sand dunes on the other side. It was quite magnificient.

Wavecrest was in the news a lot lately as the owner successfully prevented mining exploration in the vicinity. The area is partly owned by the locals. It is a magical estuary and mining would have ruined the ecology irreparably. The crowned cranes only came back there because of good conservation management by the owner.

Dinner at Wavecrest was not as good as Mazeppa but similar – 4 course meal. The coffee was horrible – lousy – only Nescafe and coffeelets. Life’s too short for a lousy cup of coffee.

The four hikers we met at Mazeppa were doing the Meander from Cob Inn to Morgan’s Bay. We had dinner with them here. The next day they went on to Seagulls whereas we went to Trennery’s. forgotten their names already!

15.2.2006

6am. We took a canoe and paddled up the Nxaxo River. There are actually two rivers converging at 1 mouth. We saw some spectacular birds. The crowned cranes flew away from the beach. 2 fish eagles were spotted. One we surprised and flew out right in front of us. Thrills.… Amongst others we saw malachite kingfishers, hornbills that fly like torpedoes, knysna lourie, curlew, and lots of small birds. Also spotted were hundreds of crabs with red pincers, vervit monkeys and tree dassies.

We stopped at a jetty to walk a bit in the forest. A mistake as the flies were the genuine biting kind. Stopped for a wee and the damned things bit me on the bum OUCH. We had a good breakfast with the UK hikers and started our hike at about 10am – a bit late but good for low tide.

Trenerry’s

So we started our hike to Trennery’s. The guide and four porters were waiting for the other hikers. They mistook us for them and when it was discovered that we were walking without a guide they were quite put out. I think we should have had a guide as the poverty is rife there and they want for everything. Also it would have been safer for us – who knows what sort of potential danger was waiting for us. And then of course the porters would have carried our rucksacks for a mere R30 a day.

Well, we didn’t have a guide so did not get to walk through the natural forest but took the path down to the sea. This was a mistake as it meant rock-hopping and bundu bashing which was not fun. I like a simple walk. Then we got into the hills and it was far nicer. This walk wasn’t as nice as the previous day’s.

We crossed the Kobonqaba River at low tide. We took off out takkies and waded across. The others had a canoe organised for them. Which was ridiculous as there was so little water. We stopped at the Jacaranda for lunch. This wreck is getting smaller. The beach was not what I remembered it to be. Also there were no oysters this time. Oyster catchers yes.

We came across quite a few poachers of perlemoen and crayfish. They have a smart network and it will be v difficult for the authorities to catch them.

When we got to Trennery’s we couldn’t find the beach entrance so walked all the way round. This time it was R350 DBB no packed lunch included – just as well as we still have left overs from the other two days. This was fine by us anyway. Distance: 14km

Had a nice cuppa and a swim in the pool. Had a hot bath for a change (not often are there baths in the units these days). We sat on the stoep and watched the rain close in. dinner at 7.30pm.

Before dinner we went to Seagulls where our newly acquired English friends were staying. The hotel served oysters at the bar which was v nice but we had not paid for them so didn’t eat any – good on us!

kei mouth & morgan bay

16.2.2006

We overslept for the first time this whole holiday. Just made it for breakfast at 8.25am….dearie me….

Saw our English friends while paying the bill. They were going on one of Trevor’s Trails, which we decided not to do. It was overcast and much cooler – a nice change.

We left Trennery’s at 9h30, cool and cloudy. At Trennery’s there was a group of hikers (I think they were a company doing team building or such. Anyway they left at the same time as us with a guide. The stretch of beach between Trennery’s and Kei mouth is not that great. No oysters this time…actually maybe three. It was slightly raining when we reached Kei mouth at about 11am. The ferry was on the other side so we had to wait till there were enough people that side to come over. The big group turned up after us. Suddenly the ferry crossed over the river. I think it was because of the influx of people this side. The trouble was, the group’s lunch hadn’t arrived so they didn’t embark. We did – shot onto the boat right away. Their guide told the ferryman their plight so it meant another wait. Ah but did it…lo and behold, a little bakkie came buzzing down the hill and onto the ferry. The ferry promptly moved off, leaving the big group behind. Yay! Cost of ferry R1.

Then it was the Hog-Mor-Kei route to Morgan’s Bay. It would have been a nice walk if it wasn’t wettish and Alan wanted to get on. I did a bit of complaining as it was hard keeping up. We walked past Cape Morgan Lighthouse (est. 1964) and then down to the beach. Had a rest and left overs from yesterday. Kei mouth to Morgan Bay 5.5km

Arrived at Morgan Bay Hotel at 1.15pm and decided to have some lunch. Actually Alan had some and I just had coke. All the hotel food had filled me up. We decided not to stay the night. This is after all one of the stops.

Walked up the hill out of M Bay and watched some geese who decided to all run into the dam at the same time. Came across a woman who was selling beads from bead beach. She had 7 but we only bought 1 having only a R10 and then a R100 note. Should have just given her the R100 and taken them all. Downhill to Double mouth – hard on the knees and Alan’s ankle. Found more bead girls but no money so we told them to come to Marsh Strand tomorrow. The crossing at Double Mouth was very easy, the one side closed. On we went, Alan waiting every so often. I know the way so it was ok. Got to Marsh Strand at 5pm. Quite wet and rainy the last bit. We were very tired but we saved R700!

17.2.2003

Thank goodness we finished the walk yesterday as it rained all day. I started to Century by Michael Molloy. Pete went back to Queenstown with all his shells and the decoder.No tv...never mind.

Mdumbi beach backpackers

19.2.2006 Sunday

Drove back to Coffee Bay and Mdumbi Beach Backpackers. Took about 3 ½ hours. Stopped at Komga for money.

Met and made friends with Hyman, Johan, Yann (Norwegian), Gertruide, and Atsky. Hyman and Johan run the place. Johan’s from Lusikisiki.

Mdumbi is an old mission. The cross can still be seen outside one of the buildings that used to be the church. In 2002 it was turned into a backpackers. The accommodation is traditional huts with a communal ablution block. I prefer to have my own loo. A friendly place. Frances tells me the backpackers is a front for a crayfishing concern. Illicit or not? I don’t know.

Presley's bay

20.2.2006 Monday

We hiked all the way to Presley's Bay in the hope of finding shells but found very little. Cool weather. We crossed Mdumbi River and found a good diving spot 1km from the river. It is a magic beach with an island of milkwoods. Goats cattle etc all along the way. Very few birds – no oyster catchers and no oysters. We did find shells 2 beaches south of Lwandile Point.

Lwandile Beach is very nice. Presley Bay is ok. Alan dived in the sea and trod on a sea urchin. Arsehole – his words. Surgery on beach with Magiver knife. Got one thorn out the other was difficult. (Eventually festered its way out weeks later). Cottages to let - check the internet. The hike took 3 hours there and 3 hours back. With stops. 9km one way

21.2.2003 Tuesday

Very wet and rainy. Read the whole day practically. Mike Molloy’s book was thick so it was just as well I had it. We went and had a cooked breakfast at the café. R20 each. Chatted and then went back to hut to read again.

Later that afternoon, after trying his hand a surfing (not v successful), Alan went to a shebeen with Yann to buy some black label – R8.50 a quart. We had a fantastic seafood dinner – cob and prawns for R50 plus some of Johan’s birthday cake. It was a Mississippi mud cake. Delish. Alan thought I was too scared to go to the shebeen but actually Yann only invited him. I think that Alan was worried for me…

22.2.2006 Wednesday

Chilled at Mdumbi backpackers. Walked around to Anchorage…almost 2.5km. Finished the book and then read the Sunday Times. Finally went to the shebeen to buy more beer and also eggs. The eggs came in a plastic packet.

23.2.2006 Thursday

A beautiful day – went down to beach and saw a herd of cattle in the sea with a lot of horses. We think they were salt-dipping the animals. V. interesting. The Xhosa kids were having fun with the horses. One got thrown by his horse. Big joke. Everyone laughed - Ha ha. Alan tried his hand with the lure. Went back and packed up paid and cheers. As we were leaving we saw the QE II just below Mdumbi. It was really close in to shore and was quite spectacular.

Stayed one more night at Marsh Strand. It was cloudy and cool.

Since getting back home have done nothing with the shells so far. I think we won’t be collecting shells in a very serious way – far to tedious.

24.2.2006 Friday

Island Vibe backpackers

Left the Wild Coast and drove down to J Bay to Island Vibe backpackers. A pleasnt afternoon. Walked down to the beach and along to Marina Martinique. Walskip Restaurant was on the beach. In fact the floor was the sand. A bit pricey tho’. Met two girls at the backpackers and had supper with them. One was American and so we had an interesting time.

25.2.2006 Saturday

Back home on the ranch to Nuggett who we couldn’t find at first. A very pleasant holiday and one we will do again so that we can say we walked the whole WILD COAST.

Marsh Strand and Dwesa

Marshstrand and Dwesa - July 2010

Trip to Marshstrand for two weeks. Ostensibly to catch fish…

Left home on 10^th July – the day before the World cup final…

Travelled the distance in 1 day = 1137km

• The Baths – Citrusdal = 18km
• Citrusdal– Droehoek rd = 89km R303
• Droehoek rd – R46 = 28km R46
• R46 - N1 = 42km N1
• N1/R46 turnoff - Touws river = 9km
• Touws R – Laingsburg = 62km
• Laingsberg - Beaufort West = 226km
• Beaufort West – Graaf Reinet = 209km R61
• Graaf Reinet – Pearston = 75km R63 goes to King ends at Komga/N2
• Pearston – Somerset East = 48km
• Somerset East – Cookhouse = 25km
• Cookhouse – Bedford = 34km
• Bedford – Adelaide = 22km
• Adelaide - Fort Beaufort = 35km
• Fort Beaufort – Alice = 22km
• Alice - King Williamstown = 84km
• King – East London = 62km N2
• East London – Haga Haga Marshstrand = 65km R349

2010.7

Arrived at Marshstrand on 10 July just be the World cup final between Spain and Holland. Craig made us some nice chicken supper when we arrived.

11.7.2010

The World Cup final – Spain won 1-0

Craig was backing Holland. I was backing Spain – sorry Fabio

13.7.2010

Craig drove us to Cintsa Mouth and we walked back along the beach. Found three oysters – yummy. Alan had a shot at catching a fish. Nugget was happy to be with us.

Cintsa – Haga Haga = 15km walking along the beach

19.7.2010

Marshstrand - Dwesa = 228km

We then decided to go to Dwesa. Had to leave the poor Nug dog at home but she wasn’t so poor as Craig looked after her Very Well.

Idutywa – Willowvale – Dwesa – road a bit crap between these two places.

Dwesa Nature Reserve: R200/night x 2 nights = R400

Neat grassy campsites. Nice ablution block with gas for hot water.

Three shower cubicles in one room

Lots of Vervet Monkeys grrrr……. Bloody thieves.

20.7.2010

Alan tried his luck at fishing. Didn’t get much.

21.7.2010

Hike along the beach from Dwesa caravan park to Mbashe River = 12km one way. A lovely walk with long beaches. Also a bit of climbing up cliffs but just spectacular.

Collected stacks of oysters along the beach – spring low and the birds hadn’t found them yet. Oyster catchers, sand pipers, gulls, terns etc – also lots of dolphins and even some whales out to sea.

Mbashe river near The Haven. Have to do that next.

Left at 8am and got back to Dwesa about 3.30pm = 24km walking

Marshstrand to Queenstown = 219km Spent our last night with Jill in Queenstown where she showed us her alterations to the house. New flat v good idea.

Peter has millions of shells.

Botswana Trip - Winter 2009

We did this trip in June 2009. It was the first long journey we took in The Savoy. The diary has been in word all this time. Now I shall post it here

2009-06-09 Botswana Trip

Getting started

Have been packing to leave for the last three months. Been having a great time messing about in ‘The Savoy’. Last minute things now like clothes and food…will leave home this arvy.

Travelled to Outside Springbok (Soebatsfontein rd) and parked off the side of road. Four hours travelling from home got there past 9pm. Very windy and had to close down the tent and sleep in the bak due to the noise. A squeeze but cozy.

Wednesday 10.6.09 - Driving

Woke up after the dawn! Left at 9am and stopped at Steinkopf for diesel.

Arrived at Vioolsdrif border post – a breeze. Got to Noordoewer and a very nice police officer stopped us and said he had to give us a ‘penalt’ for not wearing seat belts. Just for crossing the Orange river without belts! Crap. Anyway we were very sorry and nice and he took Alan’s drivers. Off we went to customs. Same lady there as in November. Back to get the licence and pay the fine. Luckily it was just a warning. Was he testing us?

A long drive ahead. After Grunau and before Keetmanshoop we found a padstalletjie selling biltong. Beautiful area, granite bolders and hilly countryside. Stopped and bought some. Campsites in this area.

Lots of Black rivers here – Swartskaap, Swartmodder, Swartsand and Swartz. Past Keetmanshoop diesel getting low… stopped at Asab but no luck. Panic?? Drive slowly. Red light came on 80km from Mariental. Alan blamed me. Anyway we got to Mariental with 1.7l left in tank. Whew.

4.30pm and on we go to get to Windhoek at least. Drove past Rehoboth at 6.45pm – lots of traffic. Travelled on to Windhoek. Getting close to the metropolis – rd suddenly busy. Decided to carry on to Okahandja.

Stopped after 9pm at Kings Way. ‘Christian’ organisation. Nice ablutions but very noisy. Woke up early and left at 7am.

Thursday 11.6.09 – Travel weary

On to Otjiwarongo, saw our first kudu. Thick cloud with light drizzle. Can you believe it.

Otjiwarongo at 9am. Filled up. Nice and cold but sunny now. Long, long drive..

Getting into Frances’s CD “Corduroy Mansions”

Rundu at 3.30pm. filled up and got a nice piece of rump

Ngepi Camp at 5.30 on the Kavango River. Hippos and crocs! No hot showers … grrrr. Alan gippo’ed.

Friday 12.6.09 – Caprivi Strip

Left Ngepi, nice but over-rated at about 10am. Caprivi strip is quite boring.

Kwando Camp at lunchtime. On the Kwando river. These camps are still v colonial and lovely. We’re the only campers so far. The river is really high and a lot of the chalets are in and partly submerged in the water. It hasn’t been this high since 1969.

Saturday 13.6.09 – The Mighty Zambezi

We were going to have an eland steak but the asking price was R140. Not for us. So we decided NOT to chill for two days and packed up to move on to Katima Mulilo. Took the road less travelled but was not v interesting but is in the process of being tarred.

Katy Sharpe at Tutwe information and tourism kiosk gave us some advice.

Namwi camp was very commercial – cost R90pp – not for us

Kalizo Lodge: we were told the road was very bad from the floods and be careful not to get stuck. We took the road anyway. A 2x4 would have managed it fine.

So here we are on the mighty Zambezi river. And Alan has a fishing trip to look forward to tomorrow. The river is high – lots of rains.

Lots of pied kingfishers. Red breasted roller, wagtails, blue waxbill, green African pigeon, grey loerie,

Had a braai with the lodge. Lots of meat, not wonderful.

Sunday 14.6.09 – Catching Fish and Watching Birds

8am – Alan went fishing with a guide. Came back at 1pm. Caught a foot long tiger fish but no photo to prove it.

I was Mrs Tittlemouse and cleaned the floor! Read my book…

Kalizo Lodge is very pleasant .

Monday 15.6.09 – Enter Botswana

Grey Loerie, green African dove, black collared barbet,.

To the Ngoma bridge border. Easy crossing – no meat ate all the biltong beforehand.

Travelled a few km and saw a giraffe! Yay! Elephant, baboons, and African ground hornbills. Vulnerable birds.

Kasane: Botswana Info Centre. They told us we wouldn’t get in to Savuti or Linyanti. Off to Sududu Gate – Chobe park main entrance. Paid park fees for three days. Tomorrow we’re off to a game drive.

Kubu Loge; P65

Chobi Safari lodge; P65 – v crowded, first come first served

Ngeni safari camp; P50 may stay there next.

But we stayed at Toro Lodge P65 coz we paid as everything was filling up. Toro Lodge is commercial

Lost our number plate. Poor fixing.

Also checked out Marios meat market. Nice cheap beef.

Tuesday 16.6.09 – The Wild things

Off to a reasonably early start to do the Chobe river route. All the way to Ngoma gate. We saw:- impala, giraffe, wart hog, buffalo bulls, elephant – one was the hugest we’ve ever seen; zebra, water buck, And birds. Lots of lilac breasted rollers, white faced ducks, stilts, yellow billed stork, fish eagle, spoon bills,

Alan was telling me about the lions in the Kalahari when we drove past this elephant almost on top of him. If his tusk hadn’t been in his mouth he would have touched him! Alan just put foot, he got quite a skrik.

Across the transit road to find Kavimba community camp – but it was closed. Also Buffalo ridge camp. Back to Sedudu to ask about staying at Savuti for at least one night. Other travellers told us that the road from Savuti to Moremi was under water and we’d need a whole day just to get there from Savuti. They also saw wild dogs…

Mr Kookilwe at Sedudu said it was a huge problem to get a campsite at Savuti but when he heard we’d paid for four days park fees he said he’d look into it. So we have to wait and see and go back on Thursday. Otherwise we will camp wild…ja.

Stayed at Ngina Safari camp.

Wednesday 17.6.09 –Two Rivers and Four Countries

Chilled at Kasane. Found a local African market where we bought beans, leaves to make a relish and some pretty material for Frances. Looked at an expensive art gallery – overrated. Had a number plate made at Kasane computers. To the Spar for provisions.

Went to where to two rivers and four countries meet. Chobe and Zambezi. Countries: Namibia, Botswana, Zambia and Zim. Impressive. Met Rocky who tried hard to get money out of us by telling us all about the rivers – erroneously as it turned out.

Mario’s meat market for fillet, kudu and wors. Had the most wonderful braai. Eat your heart out!!

Thursday 18.6.09 – Savuti here we come

Went back to Sedudu and had a chat with Mr Ndadi. Guess what? He got us a spot at Savuti for 2 nights. Nothing like perseverance. So off we went and had a safety check and told how to drive.

A new road is being built by the Chinese but at present the road is slow and 4x4 is necessary. Saw a few Elephant on the way. Got here at about 2pm.

Lilac breasted roller came and caught ants right next to us. Elephant, Wilderbeest, giraffe, impala and some lovely kudu at entrance to Saviti camp.

Ate wors and rolls and eggs. Went out at about 4 to look for wild dog. Saw none. Came back and Alan was totally miz. D&V. firing from both ends. He couldn’t even make the ablution block. We both thought the end of the world had arrived.

Friday 19.6.09 - Where the Wild Dogs are

Alan woke up hungry, feeling better. Off we went looking for wild dog. Met Gregg Anderson and his mum, Val. Very chatty. Knows all about everything just like Alan.

PM: out again after a warm shower – hot water very scarce here – and tea. Drive, drive, drive – nothing. Elephant blocked the way so we reversed and took another turn. And there were the wild dogs!!! Six in all right in front of us and then they passed us – a metre away. Fantastic! We did a turn round the block hoping to catch them again and we did. They were having their supper after killing an impala. 10 were there. One female was pregnant so wasn’t there. One alpha male went back to give her some of the meat.

Mission accomplished.

Saturday 20.6.09 – A day of Adventure – Savuti to Moremi

What an exhilarating day we had! We left Savuti at 8am and mistakenly took a wrong turn and came to Moremi on the Marsh rd instead of the Sand ridge rd. At first it was v easy and we saw our first blackbacked jackal, some zebra and a magnificent tawny eagle being hassled by some crowned plovers. Also tsessebe.

Then, we came to some muddy tracks. Alan’s judgement was a bit suspect as there was a hard track on the right. Although this did have an elephant hole. We got half way through the mud when we got stuck! Oh crap. Out with the brand new max tracks. At first they didn’t work and Alan used a spade. Then we discovered that if you reverse slightly before inserting them it works like a charm. Thank goodness. We were both a bit anxious to say the least. The rest of the trip was a piece of cake as most of the road had dried out by now. It must have last been used two weeks ago as there were v few tracks. Only the last buggers that battled all the way through the wet.

We found Kwai campsite quite easily. Elephants roaming under the trees. Had lunch and headed for Moremi park. A long drive with many detours and mud. Everyone very lax here. We drove as far as the hippo pool. It was lovely. We saw some water buck on the way. Birds; Saddle billed stork, African jacana, knob nosed duck, white faced ducks and also the hippos of course. It took a long time and we only got back here at 6.30 dark already.

Now for some kudu steak.

Kudu steak and spud with tomato salad was delish.

Sunday 21.6.09 - Squatting

Set off at about 8am to go back to Moremi North gate. Got completely disorientated. Many roads leading all over the place but eventually ending at Kwai Village.

On to Xanakaxa for late tea. Not a lot of game. But we helped a vehicle out of the sand with our MAX TRAX. Saved the day. I think they were really pleased. Exchanged travel tips.

At Xanakaxa we refilled the water tank. Lets hope it doesn’t taste like diesel…

On to Third Bridge as there was no space for us. By-passed 3^rd bridge in favour of Mboma Island where we wanted to go for a boat trip on the Delta. Mboma island is 16km further and really isolated. We took a trip in a mokoro as the boat engine was not working. So now we’ve been on the Okavango.

At Third bridge there were lots of animals. Zebra, lechwe, impala, one giraffe lying down, wart hogs,

The reception spot at Mboma Island boat station looked really nice so we asked Alen, Benjamin and Daniel if we could spend the night. We have had ‘engine problems’ so they let us stay. We gave them P150.

More kudu steak for supper. Yummy.

Monday 22.6.09 – Stuck in the Mud

Had a great rest at Mboma Island boat station. Got up bright and early as we heard lions in the distance. Said Cheers to the three blokes and were off before 7. Not quite. The sludge right at the boat station held us up. Alan made the royal fuckup of being in too much of a hurry so we got stuck in the mud! Get out the max trax. They didn’t work. The diff was on the ground. Get out Rodney’s jack. It didn’t work. Panic stations. Eventually, Benjamin, Alen, Daniel and the other one push us backwards out with the help of the max trax. Alan didn’t make the same mistake and we were off albeit and hour later. We missed the lions. Not many animals on Mboma island. We saw some elephant running like mad. We think it was because Alan clapped two planks together to clean them of mud. The riverine forest was spectacular and we did see leopard spoor.

Moremi is a bit disappointing although we saw some smashing birds. Wattled cranes dancing, two fish eagles, African ground hornbills, yellow-billed stork, striped kingfisher. The usual animals.

It was a long drive to Mankwe. We got here at about 3.30. Staying at Mopani campsite. Apparently the hyenas come and steal whatever they can.

Alan has made some nice bread rolls. Having soup for supper.

The gate controls are very lax and we just drove out of Moremi without a by your leave. They don’t know where we are.

Tuesday 23.6.09 – Maun and the Internet café

Left for Maun. Stopped at a traditional accommodation place. Discovery B&B. nice mud rondavels. Basket place wasn’t there but we bought some mats and wood from the side of the road.

Stopped in front of internet café in Maun. Free wireless access. Skyped Frances and then wrote a long e-mail but lost it before sending it off. Then the computer died. Getting late. Bought food, fuel and booze.

Off to Ghanzi. Vetinary fence doesn’t allow transport of meat south so had to buy the meat in Ghanzi. Stayed at Thakadu camp. ‘The rampant aardvark’. Very nice and unpretentious with a lit up water hole. Saw eland and birds. Then we had eland steaks for supper at the restaurant. Lovely char-grilled with chips.

First freezing night. Made hotties for the first time.

Wednesday 24.6.09 – Freezing Bushmen

Thakadu is really nice and we went for a walk with bushmen in the morning. Robert the interpreter was v good and we were shown some of the medicinal plants and a die plant. The little bushmen dressed up in their skins and were so cold we felt so bad. The fire they made was done quickly in order to get warm.

Travelled on the back roads to Phoswane camp in the Kaa Kalahari. Very remote, it feels like but there are always some cattle men around. Saw some buck, wildebeest, ostrich and also pale chanting goshawk.

Thursday 25.6.09 – The Road less travelled

Woke up quite late to silence. Cold and still but lovely. Had a hot shower out in the open and moved on to find where to pay. Arrived at Ngwantle village and paid P110 for the night. Includes concession fee of P50

At Matleseng pan we saw red hartebeest for the first time. Also springbok and ostrich.

Carried on to Kaa Gate. Drove on the cutline – a fire break which is very wide and sandy. Alan drove fast and furiously. He had fun. Got to Kaa about 3pm and had a nice chat to the warden. Our red light came on just before we got there so we filled up with our extra diesel.

Another 33km to Thupapedi camp. Saw eland for the first time in the Kalahari. Really big and fat. Also gemsbok, hartebeest and jackal.

Made a fire and had Botswana beef with roast veggies for supper. Unfortunately have to go back to Kaa gate to get back to our next stop.

Heard that SA are playing Brazil in the semi-final confed cup. Yay.

Friday – 26.6.09 – Eland

Got up early and were off at crack of dawn. Saw more eland. They were fantastic. Travelled a long way to Polentswa camp. Did not see a lot in the north. Got to Polentswa early and had a rest. Alan made bread.

Saturday 27.6.09 – King of the Beasts

Early start again and we saw the most beautiful lion walking towards us at Polentswa turnoff. He got a bit skrikkerig as he passed but he just carried on walking. It was just wonderful.

At Nossob we made use of the ablutions and had a shower, did washing and had fried eggs for breakfast. Camp was deserted as everyone had gone out to spot a lion.

Carried on down the road and witnessed the invasion of school kids on holiday. At about 2pm we decided not to stop at the main picnic spot and then proceeded to spot a Honey badger and just after that 2 bat-eared foxes. And then we also saw our first secretary bird.

Had our lovely quiet lunch at Auchterlonie.

On to Rooiputs – road closed so we had to go round via Two Rivers. Gemsbok on the dunes right next to us. Pasta for supper.

Sunday 28.6.09 – Back to SA

Had a leisurely breakfast of jungle oats. Then decided to wash up at Twee Rivieren. Got to the border post and there is a lovely new building with both Botswana and South Africa Immigration together.

At Twee rivieren there was such an influx of holiday goers that we decided to move on. We filled up at Askam and inflated the tyres. Stopped at Upington for some lunch and supper. Went to Kanoneiland across the Orange river. Very interesting.

On to Kenhardt. Stopped at padstalletjie and asked about the rock engravings. Were referred to Alma the Chatterbox from Bushmanland B&B. she took us to some etchings just outside town. We are now staying on the farm of Frank (sister Cathy, who can also chat). Camping under an acacia. Making potjie with Karoo beef.

Monday 29.6.09 – Over the Karroo

Wasted time chatting to the Goliaths. They are keen to get onto the tourism wagon but haven’t a clue. Left Kenhardt at about 10am and travelled via Brandvlei and Middelpos to Sutherland. A very beautiful part of the country. We travelled down the Vis rivier valley and there is a lot of water around from all the rain last week. We stopped at a murasie and walked to it. A lovely place.

Arrived at Sutherland about 3pm. Asked about going to SALT but the tour was fully booked – school holidays. Sutherland is a thriving little place. Altitude 1550m, Population 2030. we had coffed (lousy) and a nice pancake at Halley se Kom eet. Bought chicken to make a potjie for supper

Spent the night at Veverlatenkloof camp on the pass to Matjiesfontein. It was nice. The showers were hot using a donkey boiler. Sat in the skerm and made our potjie. Wind blew a bit during the night.

Tuesday 30.6.09

Decided to go to the Tankwa Karoo National park. Drove and drove and then we came to a sign where it said to go the way we’d come. Not going back. Travelled the Karoo to De Bos and then turned left to get to Uitspankraal at Doring river with Biedouw valley beyond. A long drive but very interesting. Winding 4x4 pass down to Uitspankraal. Alas, the river was 2m higher than normal. Crap. We had to go all the way round via Botterkloof to Doringbos to cross there. On home. Road alterations held us up on Pakhuis.

Invited ourselves to supper with the Burtons.

A great trip but a long journey -6680km altogether.

The World Cup of 2010

I'm going back a bit now and this is not really a 4x4 trip. But it was so much fun I just have to post it here.

The World Cup of 2010

Place: South Africa

Date: 11^th June – 11^th July

It started off so well. Frances and Justin were going to the evening match at Green Point so were on the fan walk when the first goal of the finals was scored by … SOUTH AFRICA! Bafana were playing Mexico. Unfortunately they didn’t make it to the next round but we were happy anyway. Our boys did the best they could what with all the bribery and corruption going on.

I had gone through the rigmarole of buying tickets, not just for one game but for two! Ronnie and Fabio asked me to buy the tickets so I entered into the spirit of things and followed all the instructions to the letter.

The first game we watched was between Holland and Cameroon. A bit of a damp squib as Holland were already in the 2^nd round and Cameroon already out. But it was one of those perfect days in Cape Town. After having lunch with Elsje in Fish Hoek, she took us to Rondebosch where we caught the train to town. We met up with the kids and friends at the Fan Park at the Grand Parade to watch Italy being soundly beaten. Much to Fabio’s glee.

Then off we went on the fan walk – millions of orange – the Dutch fans certainly stand out. A noisy walk with all the vuvuzelas blasting away. (Its just as well they’ve been banned elsewhere as young men try very hard to blast each other into next week). We stopped at a fish and chips shop for something to eat. (we had booked in a restaurant but time was going much too quickly and we were enjoying ourselves too much).

Got to the stadium at 8pm. A lovely stadium I with the Cape Tonians would embrace it. Then it was the game. Saw Eto play. Just wonderful. Always take binoculars to these big games it makes a huge difference. The 90 minutes went by in a flash and then it was time to go back to the station. This time we went all the way to Fish Hoek and it was a long ride. Got home at 1.15am

Next Game: 29^th June 2010 – 2^nd Round between Spain and Portugal

Christiano Ronaldo hardly saw the ball. But we saw all the great players of Spain – fantastic. I’m glad Spain won even if Portugal is supposed be the ‘B’ side of Brazil. This time though it was raining in the afternoon so we got a bit wet and had supper at the Waterfront.

So in the end we saw both teams who reached the final playing live. Who could have asked for more?

Tieties Bay Weekend

2011.1.21

Tieties Bay Weekend

This was the first time we ever went to Tieties Bay. Skande after 30 years and it’s only a 2 hour drive.

Left home at 4.30pm – ish – filled up with diesel at Tienie petroleum.

Went via St Helena Bay and got slightly lost. Arrived at Tietiesbaai after 7pm.

No-one at the gate, just drove through.

Campsite no. H was the one we chose for the prevailing wind etc.

Ablution block quite far away. Cold showers only.

Had chicken liver pate, for supper

22.1. Saturday

Cereal and fruit for breaker.

Went to pay for two nights = R204. A bargain.

Walked to Paternoster – beginning of beach = 6.5km

> Cape Columbine lighthouse = 1.7km A very beautiful lighthouse.

> Die Winkel op Paternoster = 7.5

> (Beach walk 800m)

Express winkel for rolls and buttermilk bread. V. nice.

Paternoster padstal for west coast rollmops and kerry vis. Delish!

Ate lunch on the beach going back to Tieties.

Braai for supper – wors and pork chops, beetroot salad and bread.

Spanspek (bought at Winkelshoek)

Alan very sunburnt face – didn’t use sunscreen. I used blockout 100%!

23.1. Sunday

Woke up at 7am! Had a lousy night horrible sore throat. Took a strepsil.

Bacon and eggs for breakfast.

Walked south this time about 8km there and back.

Found a wild bee hive in the rock on the coast

Saw an oyster catcher fly to its nest and sit down. V cool!

Left about 3pm. Went home the tarred road via Vredenburg.

Stopped at Winkelshoek for a box of peaches

Picked Jonathan and Lottie up outside Piketberg.

Distances

Paternoster > Vredenburg = 22.8

Vredenburg > Veldrif = 22

Tieties Bay > Veldrif = 45.4

Veldrif > Piketberg = 64

Veldrif > Home =126.7

Tieties Bay > The Baths = 172.1 km

No signal at Tieties bay

Paternoster has lost its charm somewhat. Too much development. Fishermen’s cottages disappeared.